Thanks, highly appreciated info! Thanks for the tip on Solacure, I'll check it out!You want a bulb that will go down to 280nm. Weed has a receptor at 280nm.
I found this UVA kit, they also sell DIY lamps. I am looking for the deep carribean sea high indeed. Tried it in the past, never forgot it.I see hella lot of folklore about UVB but the true quality and depth of high as if sun grown somewhere deep in the carribean sea comes from UVA not B.
so I the plants do not need to have UVA full time, just for a limited time, I guess mimicking the peack time the plants have outside when the sun is over them.Ive actually had better results running the UVA zoomeds, at 4hrs, mid cycle on a 11/13 or 10hr 45min cycle from start of flower to finish.
Thanks, good grows to you too! Really appreciated the information. I love to learn and in this field there is a lot to learn!!!goodluck on your experimentation brother
I like to replicate Highland desert/mountain steppe type conditions for my grow room. Either cool and dry all the time in flower w/ super bright full spectrum as possible lighting, or hot and dry days w/ cool and dry nights. Ive had insanely terpy bud from 90 degree+ flower rooms w/ lights on before because of proper air flower, 75 degree nights, and varietal selection.Looks like a awesome find... i havent tried them myself only the florescent ones...
Yeah i try to imitate outdoor island growing or mountain growing in my lighting n experimented from there...
I did most of my growing on the east side of the island n a majority of the best buds down there are grown in the middle of a 20ft high bush plot or on the side of a large hill.. none of which get 12hrs of direct lighting. Its 6-8 max with few hours of ambient/indirect lighting , b4 the sun disappears behind the tree line, or hill side headed west. Humidity is fairly stable around 50-60 year round except for rainy/hurricane season around November time... imitating that improved the quality and propper finishing of my sativas or sativa leaning hybrids...along with feeding nitrogen low as possible to keep a plant healthy n occasional low spikes of PK here n there.
I have been led to believe the UV chips burn out the fastest, and should be separate from the main board. but IDK if that is just Gavita and HLG propaganda. as they both have UVA lamps, and HLG has a blue and red "emerson effect" type supplemental light that I think has uva and a little bit of infrared.The Budget LED panels have UVA built in...
"Full-spectrum white, 385nm UVA, 660nm deep red, and 730nm far red"
"Our Series 3+ Red Spec 250 Watt Indoor LED grow light is designed to be the ultimate flowering unit while also being our highest PPE unit available. Each kit utilizes 2 of our custom designed & full spectrum LED boards with Samsung LM301H, UVA, Samsung LH351H Deep Red 660nm, and Samsung LH351H Far Red 730nm. Samsung most notably highlights that the LM301H diode carries a PPE of 3.03 μmol/J and includes anti-sulfurization .This unit is dimmable, with wattage output from 30 to 255 (+/- 5%) watts"
I love the old type conversion bulbs! the "blue" HPS is more effecient to run than a MH bulb if I remember right.For 400/600/1000w HPS lights and fixtures, I bought some of these so called 'conversion' bulbs that are really MH and run on any HPS ballast. They are from iPower. They are also cheap in price. They are available in two output levels, and have a higher spectrum in UV than standard MH well into the UV range. They are high PAR 6000k.
I generally run my grows outdoors in greenhouses and I only start and finish my runs with these lights, and in the case that I overwinter mothers or clones. I also have HPS bulbs to add the red end of the spectrum, alternating bulbs in overlapping bat wing reflectors.
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These are newer type conversion bulbs though, with a wider range of spectrum with more up into the lower UV/blue wavelength. They are more like CMH in spectrum. They are blue! And I think you can get a tan with them. Better spectrum than MH. I prefer them to the red sodium bulbs, which put out more light, but they are almost all red light. These newer type conversion bulbs are also super cheap. Not cheap to run, but cheap to buy. They also run off of older HPS ballasts or new digital HPS ballasts. I have several older switchable HPS/MH ballasts and some dedicated ones. For what I already have, they are a good upgrade.I love the old type conversion bulbs! the "blue" HPS is more effecient to run than a MH bulb if I remember right.
I only call them old school because I've not seen a MH specific or HPS specific ballast at the grow stores in so long!. back 12 years ago yeah. Badass that they are awesome and put out a wider spectrum than the old MH conversion lamps. that light was weird and kind of pink. if that makes any sense. hps light looks quite orange to me(when lookin at the lights from outside the grow area.These are newer type conversion bulbs though, with a wider range of spectrum with more up into the lower UV/blue wavelength. They are more like CMH in spectrum. They are blue! And I think you can get a tan with them. Better spectrum than MH. I prefer them to the red sodium bulbs, which put out more light, but they are almost all red light. These newer type conversion bulbs are also super cheap. Not cheap to run, but cheap to buy. They also run off of older HPS ballasts or new digital HPS ballasts. I have several older switchable HPS/MH ballasts and some dedicated ones. For what I already have, they are a good upgrade.