Kia ora mate,
Anzac day tomorrow, don't forget to have a Billy for the boys !
The macro element responsible for the green taste is obviously N, it's a bit late now but what I do is I start reducing N from about a week after flowers have set in, you can do this by reducing how much, calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate or calmag your using.
Have a look at your A+B bottles, what's in them ? It's common for 1 bottle to be a mix of potassium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate and MgSO4, the other calcium nitrate and trace elements.
The issue with coco is maintaining the balance of calcium to potassium, coco has a low CEC for calcium and a high CEC for potassium, this is why potassium toxicity is common with coco which looks like a calcium, magnesium, zinc and/or iron deficiencie's.
Hence why calmag is an easy fix but really all you need is a little more calcium nitrate in your feed which is about 10USD for a kilo.
So ideally you would with trial and error find out how much calcium nitrate you have to feed
to maintain this balance and no more unless you need the nitrogen.
Because your feeding with bottles it's a little harder to control then with salts, I have each salt mixed into a concentrate in individual bottles so I can mix exactly how I want, if you mess with the ratio of A to B you need to be careful not to throw the potassium and calcium ratio off.
If I was you at only a week & a half from harvest I would stop feeding silica because of the potassium, stop feeding calmag unless you need the calcium, reduce everything else down to 3/4ish except maybe the bottle with calcium nitrate in it and then down to half strength after a few days then stop altogether at 3 days left just go with water.
The reason I dont do a long flush is because I feel like it's harmful, the plants at it's mass gaining stage why cut off it's food supply when it simply goes into shock, then starts eating its own leaves, drawing all the nutrients out of the leaves into your buds anyway, the leaves have approximately 1000x the concentration of nutrients in them that you've been putting into your feed even after a 2 week flush the plants have just drawn everything out of the leaves into your buds anyway.
I've grown tobacco for over 10 years and weed for about 18, smooth smoke, the flavour, the smell and burn all comes from a nice slow dry and nice long cure, the very best air cured tobacco is hung in the dark in a 29ish C environment with about 80% humidity for about 40 to 60 days before it's dry, the heat, dark, high humidity environment keeps the leaves alive to eat away all the N etc but there is no light so they don't try photosynthesis, you need air flow as well of course but not directly on the leaves just to stop stagnant air.
I always just try to dry for at least 2 weeks then into jars, I'd love to have an environment set up to try the air cured tobacco method on weed but I haven't had the chance yet.
Phew sorry for the wall of text .... I suck at explaining things, hope I helped, any questions just shout out.