SSH: When to fix nutrient deficiency

pre0414

New member
New growth appears yellow to me. I know new growth is light green but this is borderline to me. I assume a Magnesium deficiency, I am using RO water. I just flushed and watered 3 days ago. Should I water with a cal/mag supplement immediately or wait until the soil dries out?

7 SSH
Flipped to flower 2 days ago.
Topped 1 week prior to flip.
Started in light warrior.
Currently in 5 gallon fabric pots in FFOF
Under 2 SF4000 LED at 24" at 60% dimmer.
RO water
PH 5.5 (a little low I know)
Temp 70
RH 55
Oscillating fan.
3- 4inch inline fans bringing in fresh air, with carbon filters. 190 cfm each
1- 8 inch exhaust fan. 750 cfm
Lady bugs for protection.

The larger phenos were given FF nutes in the beginning and it burned them. But I think we have recovered. The 2 shorter phenos (I assume NL phenos) haven't been given anything since go.

Also any advice talking me through light burn would be helpful. These SF4000's put out some serious light. I cant splurge on a good ppfd meter right now and customer support from Spider Farmer is horrendous. Phone doesnt work and email correspondence is from China and fluency in the English language is poor. The manual doesnt suggest a setting for the dimmer only height. I am getting 120,000 lux at 24 inches at 100%. Some of the symptoms I'm seeing is yellowing at the top, tips burnt, a glossy sheen on some parts of fan leaves, and curling of the edges of the leaves. It's hard to tell if any of this is from the early nute burn, or too much light intensity. I have found a guy that tests these lights and he states that at 100% at 24 inches, that board puts out 840 umols. I know this light level is adequate for flowering but that doesnt mean the strain can handle it? Or can it?
 
you give too much informations

it's confuse you talking of defiency and after about the light power

can you do a pic of your plant ?
 
The trend has been to water every 9 days. Once saturated the pot weight is over 15 pounds. After 9 days it gets down to about 10 pounds and only the very bottom 1 inch is moist. I stick a wooden skewer all the way down and the wetness of the stick tells me the moisture level. Note: soil straight out of the bag in the 5 gallon fabric pot is 13 pounds. The soil is somewhat moist, out of bag.
 
The trend has been to water every 9 days. Once saturated the pot weight is over 15 pounds. After 9 days it gets down to about 10 pounds and only the very bottom 1 inch is moist. I stick a wooden skewer all the way down and the wetness of the stick tells me the moisture level. Note: soil straight out of the bag in the 5 gallon fabric pot is 13 pounds. The soil is somewhat moist, out of bag.


ROFL

every 9 days are you serious

i watering every days
 
The trend has been to water every 9 days. Once saturated the pot weight is over 15 pounds. After 9 days it gets down to about 10 pounds and only the very bottom 1 inch is moist. I stick a wooden skewer all the way down and the wetness of the stick tells me the moisture level. Note: soil straight out of the bag in the 5 gallon fabric pot is 13 pounds. The soil is somewhat moist, out of bag.
Hello
A few questions.
Is the nutrient coco fibre specific?
How much nitrogen is in the nutrients?
Are you mixing full strength of half strength?
Personally I would water daily, from the well only(the bottom). Try to maintain a puddle during the lights on period in the well but gone after lights come back on after dark cycle. Haze doesn’t really like to be fussed with much.
I would mix half recommend amount of nutrient for the haze and other long flowering plants.
Don’t feed her everytime you water.
Water at the bottom and feed occasionally at the top just enough for a wee bit to drain to the pan.
Never feed when medium is wet.
Run a wet dry wet dry
program indoors for coco.
It is very forgiving.
Exhaust ventilation is the real demon for most indoor growers, she needs to transpire in order to grow and be happy. See to this one thing and many problems will disappear.
Don’t kill them with kindness
Haze likes to be left alone for the most part.
Good luck
I hope this helps you .
The plants look real nice, I’d say a bit more ventilation.
 
so, if it takes you 9 days to water your plants, you may want to consider running a dehumidifer, I find it easier to water once a week. When I am doing big pot organics, I can water 1 gallon a plant every 3 days near the end of flower, with it being once a week most of the cycle.
 
for me there is a lack of water can be that the bottom of your pot are wet but the roots are not at the bottom

the plant needs water especially at flowering to produce the fibers and then the buds

I also have the impression that your air is too dry for its stressed leaves
 
Hello
A few questions.
Is the nutrient coco fibre specific?
How much nitrogen is in the nutrients?
Are you mixing full strength of half strength?
Personally I would water daily, from the well only(the bottom). Try to maintain a puddle during the lights on period in the well but gone after lights come back on after dark cycle. Haze doesn’t really like to be fussed with much.
I would mix half recommend amount of nutrient for the haze and other long flowering plants.
Don’t feed her everytime you water.
Water at the bottom and feed occasionally at the top just enough for a wee bit to drain to the pan.
Never feed when medium is wet.
Run a wet dry wet dry
program indoors for coco.
It is very forgiving.
Exhaust ventilation is the real demon for most indoor growers, she needs to transpire in order to grow and be happy. See to this one thing and many problems will disappear.
Don’t kill them with kindness
Haze likes to be left alone for the most part.
Good luck
I hope this helps you .
The plants look real nice, I’d say a bit more ventilation.

Medium is Fox Farm Ocean Forret soil. Not coco
I haven't feed nutes in weeks. Ocean forret has plenty to feed for 3 to 4 weeks. It is high in N and hazes are sensitive.
I believe in a wet dry cycle as well. But how do you water every day and achieve this?
 
so, if it takes you 9 days to water your plants, you may want to consider running a dehumidifer, I find it easier to water once a week. When I am doing big pot organics, I can water 1 gallon a plant every 3 days near the end of flower, with it being once a week most of the cycle.

I do run a dehumidifier set at 55 RH. I could increase this
 
for me there is a lack of water can be that the bottom of your pot are wet but the roots are not at the bottom

the plant needs water especially at flowering to produce the fibers and then the buds

I also have the impression that your air is too dry for its stressed leaves

I can agree to that. I will try watering in shorter intervals and increasing the RH of the room to 65%
 
Medium is Fox Farm Ocean Forret soil. Not coco
I haven't feed nutes in weeks. Ocean forret has plenty to feed for 3 to 4 weeks. It is high in N and hazes are sensitive.
I believe in a wet dry cycle as well. But how do you water every day and achieve this?
Water from the bottom let the plant suck it up.
It will always be dry on top, wet on bottom.

Foxfarm is a good mix , I don’t use it anymore.
Coco is what I use and I match my nutrient to it. I do add worm castings to it before I plant and use Bio Canna everywhere. 😆
 
840umol is high in this stadium of growth. It will put everything in high gear and your vpd is out of range, this will contribute to the low transpiration. Ph 5.5 doesn`t make sense to me why are you giving this low?
 
840umol is high in this stadium of growth. It will put everything in high gear and your vpd is out of range, this will contribute to the low transpiration. Ph 5.5 doesn`t make sense to me why are you giving this low?

This is the first I've ever heard of VPD. I will research extensively. When I was feeding nutes I was bringing it up to 6 to 6.5. But the RO water after it passes through filtration is naturally low in the 5s. I will adjust this for future waterings.
 
I do run a dehumidifier set at 55 RH. I could increase this
mine run my basement down to 40 RH, but my grow room w/ air conditioner stays at 50%. when I use ocean forest, I use compost teas weekly made from a handful of ocean forest(instead of compost or worm castings) with a teaspoon of high N or high P per 30 gallons of water to influence which decomposers are the dominant species. in a knee high nylon hanging above the air stone. I only ever do 48 hour brews, I plop a tablespoon of powdered calcium carbonate on the soil once a month.. The Fungus Is Among Us. when using ocean forest, or my own blend, I do not over water, I have never PHed run off water when growing organic. aside form what I mentioned, if you do a 15 gallon pot or larger, drop some worm friends in there(5 gallons for worms, 10 for plant) you literally don't need anything else to get the job done than what I said. if you mix equal parts new mix to old mix, you can get some crazy castings to start using once you cant double your soil anymore because you cant grow anymore plants.

View attachment 49382vpd chart try to stay in the green
That chart is for nerds!!!!!!!!!!!!! good post!
 
I try my best to keep it simple. I sometimes question if compost teas are necessary.
@Mlmedpatient Do you think you would get similar results by just top dressing with the compost and the N or P feed and water it in?
Kind of depends on what you are running IMO. Compost teas speed along the processes that make the raw nutrients available. Topdressing can have a delayed effect depending on the nutes you are trying to get into circulation. Longer flowering plants might do better with topdressing for instance.
 
I try my best to keep it simple. I sometimes question if compost teas are necessary.
@Mlmedpatient Do you think you would get similar results by just top dressing with the compost and the N or P feed and water it in?
yes, but I don't make a compost tea for food sake unless its run 1 on fresh bagged soil. mostly its just a brew meant to make it so that there is fresh bacteria and fungus for my protists to eat. so that there is a cascade reaction of bunnies(fungus) overbreeding fedding the wolves(protists), who die and feed the "grass"(bacteria). which then feeds Shi- Halud(worms) which poop fully digested plant available food and enzymes all over my plants roots.
 
Update. Problem is progressing. Fixed VPD. I cant get the temps up anymore. The room is underground and it is winter here. I think I'm lucky to be seeing 70 degrees. 20210205_094647.jpgI watered with GH CaliMagic yesterday at ph 6.5 to 7.0. It had been 4 days since previous watering of pure h20. Pics show yellowing between veins. Burnt tips on new growth. The yellowing on new growth looks much more yellow in real life compared to the picture. I dont know if this is an led effect or camera. No nitrogen or nutrients for that matter have been given in 14 days. Hell the new growth didnt even exist 14 days ago. Some of the recommendations yall have made have been done within 24 hours. I assume I may not see results for a couple more days.20210205_094647.jpg20210205_094728.jpg20210205_094836.jpg20210205_094912.jpg20210205_095028.jpg
 
Back
Top