Hi EQ 2013

arctichigh

New member
Hi all here are some pics, taken last week, I am posting them in the Early Queen forum. Like any new father I am learning as I go, I would love some feed back, let me know what you see that I might be missing, One lessen I learned already do not shock your plants early in the seedling stage, as you see one is a bit behind in growth, I think I gave her to much food to early her first leafs turned yellow, as a result he/she is a bit smaller in size and it has taken a while for him/her to come back.

:eek: Lessen learned.

dilute your nutrients
don't over water
 

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arctichigh

New member
Update pics and change I did

Hi all, here are some up dated pics, I did some changes to my lights, I started my plants under a 55w cfl 2700 k bulb, 4 days ago I switched to 23w cfl 6500k bulbs my plants seem to respond positively, my temps dropped from upper 87-90F (31-32C) down to 79-82F (26-27C). I still have them on liquid nutrients, this week I will transplant the two big ones into organic soil, I don't thinks I should wait any longer and small guy will go into a hempy bucket later.

Questions
When can i see first signs of sex?
I read somewhere about preflower stage, when does this occur?

Thanks
 

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tapioca

New member
hi arctic high!

First and foremost,good choice on the EQ.I smoked an incantation of early Girl a few summers back;all around good smoke.

The pre-flowering stages under long daylengths usually begins and pronounces the plants around the sixth/seventh week of active growth.(around the two month mark of the grow alltogether)

Go to the middle of the plant.The bottom of the plant where the older growth is located is undergoing"petrification"at that time in order to fulfill it's anchoring duties.The top of the plant's growth is young,tender and in full on development mode(no hanky-panky yet,,,it's still too young there).That's why,the fourth/fifth/sixth node in the middle of the plant is most appropriate to look.They develop there first.(It all depends on variety and climate)

Choose a big leaf .Follow it's stem(the leaf's stem/petiole) back to the main stem.(meristem)There at the "node"/branch union,you should find a newly forming rosette that promises to become a branch later on.Between the three will be a growing dot.

How that dot plays out over the course of a few days will tell you wether it's a staminate or a fruiting plant.(a pollen or seed bearing/male or female plant.)

Female pre-flowers take a bit longer to become obvious than males.They don't have much tension to them,it looks like it lops away from stem and leaf stem,sorta curling off to the side.It'll split open and two white styles should grow out.The female pre-flower is nice and lush green. The calyx looks like a green teardrop

Male pre-flowers hold tension and come out sorta upright.They look like a ball with a spike on the end of it.They don't have as nice of a green color as female pre-flowers do.They'll only look like a bunch of bananas when the plant is nearing it's most floriferous point.

Judging by the pics,if you're gonna keep them under long daylenghts it could be another week/two weeks before you get to see how obvious they make themselves!

Good call on the transplant!Mj likes to have plenty of room for her wandering feet:p

If you need some help with that,provide pictures of what you find;I'm sure you can find someone here who'd be more than happy to tell you what they see!

hope I could be a bit of help:)
 
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arctichigh

New member
Update I have a Deficiency? or Nute burn? need help.

Hi all, this an up date. I have something going on with my plants, is this a Deficiency
or nute burn. I transfered my plant into organic soil 5/20/2013, the big one and the second big one, was already showing signs of yellowing and brown spots mainly on the older leafs, I cut those off but it is contining to occur, I could use some help. I have been reading icmag's " Joe's Fresh Guide to Sick Plant Diagnosis" and here on this sight but I am not positive what this is, need help.

Thanks arctic.
 

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arctichigh

New member
Hi Update current grow list of things I done

Hi tap thanks for quick response here is my list of things I done to date.

Current Grow: Mr nice Early Queen start date (04/23/2013),
Indoor grow tent,
Lighting clf with some led lights.
started in rockwool cubes and seed start soil mix with no added fert in seed start mix,
liquid diet until (05/20/2013),
Liquid diet was “quick grow nutrients” bought on ebay.

water was PH balanced with ascorbic acid. I was having difficult with the ascorbic acid powder because it does not dissolve all the way right away. PH's where running a little low most times around 5.3 to 5.5.

(05/20/2013) tranfered into home made organic soil of:

(?) mushroom compost
alfalfa meal
kelp meal
bone meal
generic kmag
*worm castings*
with allot of perlite mixed in, all most two bags worth so soil does drain very well.
Water now is city tap water at room temp no PH balancing of tap water. Tap water PH runs 6.5 to 7 sometimes. Have not checked in awhile.
Current lighting is 5 clf 23 watt 6500k daylight bulbs. I removed the LED because it burnt my little guys leafs, I kept it to close burnt the leafs in a couple hours at 4 inches (10 cm).
current temps range night 73F (22C) and day temps 84-86F (28-30C)
Humidity 30% to 58%
I have good air flow 7" fan over the light bulbs and two 4" (5 cm) inline constant 100cfm fans, one in flow and one out flow
 
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tapioca

New member
it doesn't look like it's bad enough that the plants will die...it might progress(slowly),but only time will tell I guess.

Yeah,when mixing in dry or granulated amendments(i.e.,bone meal,blood meal,)it's a good idea to subject that mix to a "cooking" or an active composting process,then on to a brief period where it'll "cool" and cure.Many people who hand out advice on creating home-made soil mixes forget to leave that one out...very important!!!(Bone meal takes forever to break down!)

But judging by the pics,your plants haven't been subjected to too much bio-activity in the soil.

It looks like a nutrient defficiency to me.If it would be nutrient burn,you'd notice it in the younger parts of the plant(uptop,in the more newer/tenderest growth at the very tops too.)Older leaves can store heavier nutrients(i.e.P,K,Ir,Z,etc.etc.) more appropriately so than young,developing leaves.

I'd say that it was the alfalfa's bioactivity and the fact that kelp is very acidic (when it's assimilating to a wet mass ) coupled with the low pH water.(5 points is too low to water continually with)Too low of a pH with too much cold(usually at night) tends to make calcium insoluble(unavailable) to the plant's root tissues...locking out available minerals.(overwatering's a bitch for that too!)It's not all too bad yet though,no need to really go nuts on what to do!

It looks like that to me...that potassium and iron are unavailable(the rusty spots...) I'd diagnose it as a lack of available calcium...but I'm no chemist!

If you're gonna flush,be patient and wait until it's time to water!(that it's dry...otherwise,flushing already wet medium is ineffective and damaging!Make sure it's warm in the room the night you do that too!No more liquid ferts for a little while should help also)

Sorry I can't come up with something more detailed.Don't panic and they should do just fine...they don't look like they're dying just yet,it was caused by a salt buildup in my opinion.
Here's a pic of a nasty salt buildup
Take care and good luck with your plants arctichigh!
 

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arctichigh

New member
update

:) Thanks for the reassurance Tap, maybe just watch and see time, I will flush real well the next time I water, my soil is freshly made so no cook time for sure,
:( fyi I do not have a hydroponic store anywhere close, so anything I do will have to be hand made.
I was thinking it might be a calcium deficiency so I add some powdered calicium & magnesium to the top, it's human calcium in powder form no vitamin d added, I just took a part the capsule and sprinkled it over the top, I hope it works.

Ok Thanks arctic out.
 

yowser

New member
under 24/0 lighting i generally see pre flowers at week 4-5 and female pre flowers are far easier to spot then male ones, far easier and strangely enough far sooner, any males that preflower early tend to sorta auto(never truely stop spitting out flowers but never fully flower either until put in 12/12) , this is from decades of growing and paying attention, and also general to many many different strains including early queen
 
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arctichigh

New member
update 5/30/2013

:) So I'm really new to growing cannabis, but a couple observation I have to note with this Early Queen,
first I have some amazing inter node grow going on. I have this small growth in between the first grow inter nodes that are growing out mostly straight up, second observation the smell from the leafs reminds me of tobacco with just a hint of mint, and skunk cabbage (a plant).

arctic out.
 

arctichigh

New member
Northwest

I live in the northwest USA, and I am referring to (pacific) western skunk cabbage, it has a very distinct odor for sure and a single leaf can grow be half the height of a man.:eek:
 
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arctichigh

New member
update 6/3/2013

Just a short update more pic later, my plants seem to be adjusting well, must have been nutrient shock and transplant shock.
*note* EarlyQueen is a very very forgiving strain, to date:
Ive burnt my plants with hot lights and to much nutrients, and chopped off to many leaves, transplanted them three times, now I am over crowding them, and they keep on ticking, this is not a test but my learning curve, boy what a curve I have:eek:.
 

arctichigh

New member
update 6/3/2013 #2

One more note, my plants are beginning to show a sign of sex maturity with in the region I think I am suppose to look, not sure yet what sex, but their is very small numbs showing with in the region of the node this is new growth I am observing, I may know with in a couple more days what I have, I am in week 6 from seed.

*Note* hindsight tells me, the next time I grow from none feminized seed, that i will start more seeds and cull as I grow, that way I will have a better chance of having more females as a result.
 
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arctichigh

New member
Update week 7 from seed

I am flipping them this week to 12/12 I'm using clf 2700k bulbs, with little trimming and no topping, will let nature do her thing.:confused:

The biggest is about 14" (35 cm)
the shortest is about 9" (22 cm), I think shorty is a male by the look of the preflower's
 

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tapioca

New member
hi arctic

Your plants are lookin' nice...you're doing a good job raising them!

The plant in front of the ruler I'm sad to tell you but I see it as male:((IMG 1058_&IMG1059)

But as far as the one with your finger in the back (IMG1060_&IMG1061)...a few more days should make those nubs more obvious!

good luck arcthigh.nice plants once again!:)
 

arctichigh

New member
Preflower

1058 and 1059 are pics of shorty, in a way I am glad he is a male, what I ended up doing is I transplanting them all into one 18 L pot, :( I had no heart to eliminate anyone, so as soon as it is very very apparent I will remove him. Thanks for the help. Today is day 2 of 12/12.
 

arctichigh

New member
Week 8, Week 1 (12/12)

I'm six days into 12/12 and two things are happening they are streeetching the tall one is now18" (45cm) the next one is 17" (43cm) I think the've stretched about 4" (10 cm) in one week! AIMG_1070.JPG

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View attachment 35508nd you can see what looks like bundles maybe balls? :(Short was pulled yesterday.
 
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