questions for Nevil

Hi Nevil,

Great to see you posting on the MNS forums!

My question is in regards to the Mango Haze-

You commented that the Mother is 5Hz122

Is the father Sk x Hz A or Hz C?

Thanks!
 
Now that the haze story is pretty much cleared up , how bout the origins of the famed northern lights #5? I've read from shantibaba that it was some sort of afghan?..
 
haze fest

this is what most here wanted a Haze history, the salient points you confirmed are what Shanti has said all along.:)

thanks for sharing the Haze and other genetics with all of us: we are better medicated as a result:D
 
The Medicine!

this is what most here wanted a Haze history, the salient points you confirmed are what Shanti has said all along.:)

thanks for sharing the Haze and other genetics with all of us: we are better medicated as a result:D

Y'v said it SkunKha.
put's a Big :D on me face!
Thanks again Nevil!
 
Interesting read about the Haze history and also that the Purple Haze was just crap, one of the best Haze smokes i ever had.:D

Neville, what can you tell about the strain Pollyanna which you used for the Early Pearl & Pollypak strain???Do you know more about the Mexican strain which is used for Pollyanna.

Namaste :)
 
California Orange

Nevil,

You have shared so much in these few days!

I tried to order California Orange from you in 1987, but you were out, and I got some Skunk #1 instead (which I sadly never grew).

I always wondered if California Orange would still be around. Did it die out?

also, I echo the curiosity for the amazing Northern Lights lineage. Do you feel that it was particularly good as a smoke all on its own, or did you prefer it in crosses?

You said a little while back that you know what you like to smoke, and more or less stick to it (my paraphrase).
What is it that you like to smoke, if I may ask?

Hope you feel increasingly welcomed, and not to overwhelmed by everyone's enthusiasm for you arrival!

best,
vajra
 
As to the Future, if there is support enough, maybe I'll come out and do a bit more work.
N.


i think that there will be more than enough support.

question about haze B x C are there any more of these seeds laying around?
because that would be amazing a 10-11 week pure haze line........ i would definitely buy about 10 packs.

I would also like to know what your smoking right now, and your top favorite strains
 
i think that there will be more than enough support.

question about haze B x C are there any more of these seeds laying around?
because that would be amazing a 10-11 week pure haze line........ i would definitely buy about 10 packs.

I would also like to know what your smoking right now, and your top favorite strains

i second all of that ,total support and high hopes that you put your expertise back to excercise,we need some pure strains in the community both sativa and affie

HzC2 is the HzCmale feminised and crossed with itself
I've used fruiting hormones on HzC male to get it to produce female flowers. HzC squared. We still have some of these old seeds. They produced real males and real females

your post on the feminised seeds thread were intriguing

id love for you too make those old seeds available ,im also interested to hear how the cross came out were you impressed?

also love to know of the BC seeds are still in the valut? id really lov to see those available


1luvbigherb
 
Great stuff L33t
One of the links goes to the Seed Biology Place. Lots of research material there, in fact there a a few good links in your posting.
SB told me that there were a number of dedicated researchers on the forum, I'm glad to say he was right!.
N.
 
Man Nev, it is really cool to see a man who has your history and who has been so shrouded in mystery is such a nice, down to Earth guy when he pops out of seclusion.

You are asking on an internet forum for information from us common folk, that says a lot about you. You and Shanti are both uncommonly humble people in an industry filled with egotistical assholes and you are 2 of, if not the 2, tops in the field (at least in my book).

Thanks for all you guys have done, are doing, and have yet to unleash on us. It is an honor and a privilege for me and, I am sure, just about every other member here, to have an opportunity to converse, pick the brain, and even trade ideas with one of the most important people in the marijuana movement and I believe nobody can argue that you are the most important person when it comes to have gotten quality genetics all over the world to people who had no other access.

I promise, no more asskissing out of me. I wanted to express my deep thanks and admiration and think it is great what you and Shanti have done and are doing for us.

Do you think organic hydro ius worth it? Can it do even close to as well as chem? I am switching partially to hydro for the first time in 15 years. I am using self contained units instead of tables this time. I grow in soil organically. Is it silly to do organic hydro at this point in time? Is there anything you know of that can compete?

I grow for me but I use a lot in tinctures, edibles, and now hash. I want to up my yields but maybe just use the hydro weed for the stuff that isn't smoked if it is silly to try organic hydro. I am disabled. One of the reasons I am trying hydro is less moving all of the heavy soil.
 
Thanks for your post Azra'eil
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIrGm4IZJL4&feature=related

The clip shows you how to make a vortex with plastic bottles. I modified it.
I drain the 1st bottle into the 2nd with a plastic tube. I cut a hole in the top of the bottle, then I drop the nozzle from a silicon tube in the bottle so that falls out though the bottom. I cut a bit off and jam the plastic tube over the end, which then drains into the second bottle. The angle that the tube goes into the bottle determines direction of the spin. I screw the Water Vortex Magnetiser to the bottom bottle.
I grew 2.5m tomato plants using this water.
If you were using a pump for your hydro system, it would cost very little to try it.
N.
 
Vortex ppm

Thanks for your post Azra'eil
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIrGm4IZJL4&feature=related

The clip shows you how to make a vortex with plastic bottles. I modified it.
I drain the 1st bottle into the 2nd with a plastic tube. I cut a hole in the top of the bottle, then I drop the nozzle from a silicon tube in the bottle so that falls out though the bottom. I cut a bit off and jam the plastic tube over the end, which then drains into the second bottle. The angle that the tube goes into the bottle determines direction of the spin. I screw the Water Vortex Magnetiser to the bottom bottle.
I grew 2.5m tomato plants using this water.
If you were using a pump for your hydro system, it would cost very little to try it.
N.

Hey Nevil, have you tested the water PPM before and after running through the vortex?
 
Nutes before or after water teatment?

Hi all,
My hydro setup is one with a barrel that contains about 200L water. In the barrel is a small circulation pump that stirs te water and a aquarium heating element that keeps the water at the right Temp.
When i fill the barrel i mix my nutes in the water and set the ph right adding a tiny bit of acid. Then i leave it stirring for at least 24hours before using the mix. It takes about 5 days to empty it.
Now i was wondering should i treat the water before mixing it with the nutes or should i treat it when ferting?

I've got a mail from Dan Winters and here it is:

Here the qustion and answer:

Q: Gidday Dan I have just been reading about your Imploder, and I'm interested in purchasing one. A query I have is whether to use it to treat the water I'm using to mix my liquid fertilizer, or to use it in the application of the fert, or both?

A: the theoretical reason for increased sedimentation rate
is increase molecular spin density(washer uses spin cycle
to sort by mass..

the related
smaller molecular cluster sizes in the water
are better able to bring the nutrient to bio available cell absorbtion

(naturally - we are making more measurements to prove
the mechanism- we know we increased charge radiance
and decreased entropy --


in practice I think I would try adding the nutrient
to the imploded water just before application


we obviously need more testing to confirm which sequence is best..

in the bean plants- they seemed to eat the nutrient from the soil faster-
(speeded up metabolism is consistent with our field theory

meaning it is critical - nutrients needs to keep up..

but whether the nutrient should come before , after or with the
more spin dense water- is pretty much a guess..


I would think either way- the water should add useful solubility
making the nutrient more available

--
taste test first results;
http://www.theimploder.com/taste-testing.html

dan

So according to Dan it doesn't make a big difference treating the water before or after the mix.
But i was wondering, if my mix is up to 5 days in the barrel, wouldn't it be better treating it just before watering the plants? Does the water loose it's revitalized state after a few days or not?
I'm def. gonna try the WVM.
Filling the barrel with treated water en when watering the plants tread it again or maybe I put an extra pump in my barrel and use Nevils setup and let my mix run through the WVM when i water the plants?
I guess putting it to the test will be the best way of getting answers.
Cheers,
Y. Sam
 
He He, Dan doesn't do much to clarify things does he? He doesn't seem to have the knack of putting things into simple language. But he goes where other scientists fear to tread.
I've watched quite a few of his clips on blip tv and I can tell you that he has rubbed shoulders with the worlds most progressive thinkers.
If I were you I'd set it up to recycle continuously and see if it poses problems. I doubt it. The theoretical danger is that it may cause chemicals to precipitate out. I reckon you would see it if that were happening.
My plastic bottle set up is on a 200L pond with 6 small goldfish in it. The water is perfect. If I disconnect the vortex, I notice that the water seems to loose charge within 2 days. I pay attention to detail, probably because I smoke a lot. One way of noticing change in water, is to see how far the bubbles travel away from the waterfall. With good water the bubbles break up close to the disturbance.
I'm really pleased that you are willing to give this a go Y. Sam. I'm experiencing very limiting circumstances right now and can't do everything I'd like to, so I value your support.
N.
 
i fount this interesting what you put on the fem seed thread nevil.


Just a few thoughts on feminised seed.

I've used fruiting hormones on HzC male to get it to produce female flowers. HzC squared. We still have some of these old seeds. They produced real males and real females.

I've used Gibberelic acid on NL5 to try to get it to produce male flowers. It did, about 5 flowers in a whole room full. The Anthers did NOT contain pollen. NL5 was a true female. A true female will not produce pollen. The ability to produce pollen is a hermaphroditic trait, which may be suppressed, but must be present to produce pollen.

There is a use for feminised seed in breeding, you get to see what the "males" phenotype is before crossing. 50% of the offspring will be true females, the only way to tell is to try and get pollen from the selected female. If it won't produce pollen it's a true female.

There is a better way to do things and that is to feminise the male to check the phenotype. I did this with my Red and Blue lines of Sk1 and got great results.
N.

so here is my question on it am i right in thinking you used the plant hormone Gibberelic acid to turn the male plant female? i would like to know your thoughts on using the plant hormone Ethylene to do the same thing. have you tried using Ethylene to change the sex of a plant and did you have any success with it. i know the banana in the plant pot doesn't make enough to effect a plant sex but could it be used practically to feminize a male plant?


i also plan on making a similar vertex system to the one on YouTube you posted. i was thinking of trying to make the first bottle flow into the second in a different direction to make the vortex change direction. whats you thought on doing this will it make a difference having the to bottles on top of each other?
 
Hi Brock 1
Ethylene (fruiting hormone) is what I used to turn Haze C male into a female. I remember plucking calyxes of the plant to smoke it for the first time. An enlightening experience.
GA3 is what I used to get "females" to produce pollen.

Re vortex bottles, I have the first one going clockwise and the lower one anti clockwise.
 
Hi All

well glad to see the light shining for some of you in that proverbial tunnel of mystical marijuana history.Actually the story of the truth is usually less colorful than all the words it takes to project a hypothesis...so glad it is clear for the most of you. I did my work and Nevil did his work so it was always difficult for me to say what Nevil did and vice versa. I always gave the general picture of Nevil and how he acquired things from what he told me but it is great to see him finally put pen to paper and share it all. Would be interesting to see how those other forums are coping with the truth now?

To answer HHHG the G13 was combined to the G13skunk when Nevil gave it to me in seed form . I only selected and inbreed to stabilize it so yes the G13skunk is the correct term. I do however have a lot of old stock to try to germinate from Nev in the original version of G13 Haze, G13 NL5, and several others. May try a few of these L33t suggestions of sulphuric acid...see how it goes.

All the best Sb
 
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