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  #1  
Old 04-15-2007, 06:35 AM
hempy
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Default Cureing you harvest the most importent part after harvest.

Hi every one i thort it was a good idear to post about cureing and to state how importent cureing is to your harvest wich can make or brake your efferts and this is more directed to the newer grower as the older growers have worket this importent part out all ready.

Over the years that i have been on line and spent time reading threw the diffrent cannabis boards i have read people passing on info to newer and less experencet growers on how to cure there harvest and to be honest it shoket me.

I rember a newbie as i call the newer grower posting and asket for advice on how to cure his / her harvest and when i had found the post they had posted saying there harvest had become moldy and asket what they should do now thats what happens when bad advice is past on to people with less experence and as a resolt this poor grower had to throw there grow out as there harvest was now un smokeuble.


WHAT IS CUREING

What is Cureing well cureing is basicly removeing all moisture from the flowers and hanging your plants to dry is just the first step wich is drying your plants and after the plants are hung to dry ( some people remove flowers from plants wet and lay them to dry ) , Then the Cureing starts wich is basicly removeing any moiasture left in the flowers.

Cureing methods are like growing methods lots of ways to do it but it realy comes down to basics wich is the dry flowers will sweat (become moist ) and you need to air dry (remove moisture) and repeat untill it stops then the flowers are cured and storeing the harvest can take place.




Im no expert and just thort this was a very importent topic that needed to be coverd as this can make or brake your harvest and can make even the worlds best cannabis turn to complet rubbish.



This is how i do it.

I first remove all the leaf i can from the plant before i harvest as it makes it easy wen it comes to triming the flowers of the plant and i then harvest the plant and hang to dry in a dark dry erea.

As the plant is dry not moist dry i then start to remove all the flowers and i place them in large plastic shopping bags with no more than say 5 oz of dry flower in each plastic bag.

Now the cureing starts i then litely tie a loos not in the top of the bag and re open it a few hors later to see if the sweating has started if not i leve for say 6 hours 12 max and open it and if the sweating has started i allow to air dry and i toss the flowers so the botton flowers are now at the top to also air dry and make sure all flowers are dry agine and it all depending on air humidity and tempreture as to how long this can take.

Once the sweeting stops say at 12 hours of the plastic bag being close do it every 24 hours once theres no more sweating your flowers are cured.



Theres lots of ways to cure your harvest and be great to hear others post there ways for newer growers to use.

I have other ways i use for when temps are real low and for wen theres lots of moisture in the air wich i can add to.
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2007, 11:53 AM
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Hey Hempy!

Thanx for the inputCuring is very important indeed!
Slow curing is the best procedure to get the humidity out of the flowers as slowly as possible , while maintaining uniform levels of humidity without allowing the buds to over dry or dry unevenly (dry more on the outside leaving excess humidity in the inner part of the flowers).

Ideally the best levels of humidity seem to be when the bud crumbles nicely when taken out of the jar and broken.

It shouldn't turn to dust neither should it be wet and 'elastic' inside and over-dried on the outside.


*One thing that also improves the taste dramatically is the aging process.

I find that most of the plants especially sativas or sat hybrids need a good 3-6 month aging before they start to show their full potential taste wise.
Generally 3 months is the minimum I would recommend for curing and aging flowers before smoking them or making high quality oil .Definitely improved flavor and enhanced aromas .


One more thing 'taste' related,
-when harvesting after the last watering with pure water, its nice to let the plants to completely dry out in the pots , let them till they wilt/drop their lower leaves before harvesting , this way the flower tissue has very little water inside when harvested thus making the curing process faster , improving the taste too (as the 'residues' from the evaporated water/humidity in the buds are way less as you start the dry process with way less initial humidity inside the bud/less water needs to evaporate/less residues).

Moreover if one needs to store bud especially outdoor grown for very long periods I recommend deep freezing in vacum-sealed airtight bags when buds are still fresh and opening before consumption for slow curing etc ..as usual
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Last edited by L33t; 04-18-2007 at 12:05 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2007, 12:06 PM
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one thing i've noticed about different strains is that with some you can almost smoke the bud right off the plant, and others really need a long time cure to bring out the flavor & potency

f~p
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Old 04-18-2007, 03:50 PM
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So true!

I ve seen this both with sats and indica dominant plants like LR , DjShort's Flo etc..


so it seems that some buds really do improve with curing others simply dont,..some taste nice even freshly cut
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Last edited by L33t; 04-18-2007 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 04-18-2007, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L33t View Post
improving the taste too (as the 'residues' from the evaporated water/humidity in the buds are way less as you start the dry process with way less initial humidity inside the bud/less water needs to evaporate/less residues).
Hello L33t, I hope life finds you well. I have a question on your above statement. Do you mean residual water(ie, water left in the plant) or residues from water(impurities).

You seem to mean impurities i think since you mention improved taste, and since water is always transported by the plant, I don't see how less moisture in the plant could cause any change in the levels of various chemicals within the plant. Say you have impurity x, which was taken up in by the plants since you used a poor food choice(hypothetically). If the moisture content is decreased prior to harvest (ie, let the plant wilt) there would be a higher content of the impurites relative to the total fresh harvested biomass than if the plant were not wilted.

A note on wilting, more correctly called critical wilt when you get excessive leaf drop. My bio prof said that when plants drop most of their leaves(just down, not off) and are in critical wilt, they stop most life process, and as long as temperature doesn't cook them to death, and the air has a reasonable RH they can survive for several weeks. I have not tested the several weeks part, but know that established mothers can go for several days if necessary in the critical wilt stage and will spring right back up vigorously. I am sure you all have seen this happen before. It usually begins with finding a wilted plant and saying "Aww F***", then realizing its OK later after it gets watered and rebounds, lol. I am sure clones that haven't been in the ground long, as well as small plants won't be able to withstand this treatment, but I have 4ft mothers in 2g pots that jump back every time.

Its apples to oranges though, since we dry it out, the level of impurities would be the same no matter what moisture content it was harvested at. The byproducts from photosynthesis, water and oxygen(as well as the energy the plant needs to grow) are not considered toxic or impure, as they are essential to life.

Although I agree for sure about wilted plants drying faster, but I cannot agree with the less impurities/residues part unless I am not understanding something.

Please don't think I am attacking your views, as I am surely not, just not sure about what you mean as what I have learned tells me differently.

Be safe

Alaska
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Old 04-18-2007, 10:37 PM
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''Although I agree for sure about wilted plants drying faster, but I cannot agree with the less impurities/residues part unless I am not understanding something.''

What I believe is that the water that is circulating inside the tissue at the time of harvest has higher 'contaminant residue' content ,compared to the water of the tissue cells that has been 'more filtered' .
This way I believe that if you harvest the plant with little 'circulating' water you get to have less residue when the buds are dried.
Just a thought


BTW I always let the plant wilt before harvest , usually leave them 10+days with no water.I remember an old post from Shanti that said to 'kill' sativas ,let them 2 weeks without water before chop n lower the temps to make em ripen faster this way you can finish em couple of weeks earlier.
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Last edited by L33t; 04-18-2007 at 10:54 PM.
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  #7  
Old 04-19-2007, 04:00 AM
hempy
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hi guys glad to see this post taking off as i sed at the start i feel harvesting cureing is a big part of growing and there are lots of ways to go about it but few of the newer growers know its importence relating to good resolts at the end.

At a diffrent site i rember a big argument brakeing out over should you flush or should you not bother flushing before you harvest fact is its a personal choice me i flush.

I rember reading that wen you harvest your plant/ plants you should do it at the end of the day or tawards the end of lite cycle but fact is potency wont be any better or worse what time you harvest as its genetic and if the plant has been waterd or not agine wont affect smoke quolity at worse all you going to get is it will take a day longer to dry but i do let my plants buckets dry oout not let the plants wilt tho before i harvest.

Cureing it right is wat matters.
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:44 AM
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Hey Hempy!

You are right, its always down to personal preference in the end.I too like to flush my plants 1-2weeks before chop.
I find that the buds that are heavily ferted throughout the flowering and left unflushed or have been given lots of fert during the last weeks before harvest, definitely taste bad and are harsh to smoke , even if grown with organic ferts.The only case flushing is not needed I believe is when a plant is grown outdoors in light compost and hasnt been given any liquid ferts especially after mid flower.

I agree on the potency too, I ve had cured buds for around a year and the potency changed slightly but nothing dramatic over such a long period after chop.The taste did ..but the high and raw potency didnt improve much after the day of harvest.

If a seed is good .. the plant will show its potency potential even if harvested early and dried fast..I still remember sampling some immature 'catpiss' SSH at day 65 from seed , very early flowers that were quick dried to sample.The high was so rushy , trippy and very potent , hallucinations , vivid colors & flashes of light everywhere ...

Perhaps the high of the immature resin glands was not 'fully realized' but the raw potency and initial rush from that sample was as good as from the long-cured buds.
The high did change as the flowers matured , became longer lasting and more balanced , taste also improved with curing .....but you knew it was that potent from the very first early sample
Yep,it's in the genes
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Last edited by L33t; 04-19-2007 at 11:52 AM.
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  #9  
Old 05-07-2007, 04:09 PM
The Crow
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I have been a fan of hempys growing for many years, he is a very knowledgable member of the community. One of the best grower's on any of the boards. Keep up the good work information hempy, the noob's out there need a good mentor.
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  #10  
Old 05-22-2007, 10:05 PM
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hempy dude,i never cure in plastic ,as you gotta keep stirring your hand to bring the bottom back to the the top,i use brown paper bags like you keep banananana,s in.........i let em dry completely out before cutting at least 3 days,i chop em,de fan leaf them,trim small leave,hang upside down for at least 5 days then into Brown bags for curing for maybe 3 days then onto glass jars ,when in glass i open them once aday to get the bad shit out and good shit inn....peace out ...........thats my method any how
bandit
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