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  #21  
Old 10-15-2013, 11:55 PM
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I like to keep the process going. I start harvesting and hanging whole plants. As the fan leaves dry I'll remove them. If the bud is starting to dry I'll trim but leave buds on the branch and put into paper sacks and move on to the next plant. A little at a time so I don't have to do everything at once when they start to get crispy. After they are all in bags I'll start to jar them.
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  #22  
Old 10-16-2013, 07:51 AM
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I'll tell you one thing I do. I actually give them a good waterng shortly before I chop. This help's prolong the dry time. I live in a dry climate so it helps them dry slower.
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  #23  
Old 10-22-2013, 09:04 PM
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Hi peeps,

The way I see it, when the bud is still on the tree, its overall quality is B. You take fresh bud off and can manicure it from a B to an A + C(trim). It dries faster and after a longer cure the difference is not as visible.
If you trim the veg leaves off a live tree, then cut it and hang it. You won't require a cure as long to unleash full aroma and taste, but you will need a longer dry. When you take the buds off a dried tree you can either leave it at B(which gives you more overall mass) or again trim it down to A(+)+C. I guess it all depends on how much time you want to spend before you have the ultimate smoke.
At least that's my experience.
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  #24  
Old 10-23-2013, 10:59 PM
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Default fan leaves

do not take the fan leave off unless you are only a day or so from cutting the down other wise you plant will reproduce the leaves to finish wasting time and prolonging the harvst fan leaves are use to produce energy especially when flushing you need these leave to finish in time otherwise the plant will try to reproduce them
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  #25  
Old 10-29-2013, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medicalguy View Post
do not take the fan leave off unless you are only a day or so from cutting the down other wise you plant will reproduce the leaves to finish wasting time and prolonging the harvst fan leaves are use to produce energy especially when flushing you need these leave to finish in time otherwise the plant will try to reproduce them
Spot on. Except I don't agree with second part of your post. Maybe it's my own ignorance and so I don't want to spread misinformation, but I've found that fan leaves are overrated during late flowering. Buds photosynthesize on their own, I've tried trimming most of canopy off during second part of the flowering to expose more buds to direct light for increased energy/THC production and it worked like a charm every time. Again, I don't want to spread misinformation - that's just my own experience.
Older fan leaves are often sickly and heavy, covering lots of greener new growth and buds. Plant reproduces a bunch of smaller, easier to deal with leaves in no time, didn't see any damage towards the overall health of the plant, quality of the smoke or the amount harvested. Just my 2 cents. It all depends anyway...
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  #26  
Old 11-02-2013, 06:01 AM
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I find individually manicuring each bud as you go - preserves overall trichcomes
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  #27  
Old 12-10-2013, 05:33 AM
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I cut the plant, pop off the sun leaves, cut branches to manageable sizes, trim bud leaf with scissors, then hang till nearly dry, then snip smaller buds into to paper bags which I hang. Then when stems are NEARLY dry enough to snap, jar them up. Its humid here at the head of the Chesapeake bay, & if I leave leaf on to dry, I sometimes end up with moldy buds. Of course I have to burp the jar about 3 times a day, for sometimes up to a week. But I think all this would vary from one area to another, depending on humidity or lack of.

P.S. Seems to me like manicuring dried buds knockes off more trichromes.
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  #28  
Old 12-21-2013, 06:54 PM
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My procedure is bring the plant in the pot after 12 hours dark, into my dimly lit bedroom as not to 'awaken' the plant and let the root system start pumping sugars into it. Trim off all the fan leaves and then if the bud is leafy - cut the leaves sticking out of the nugs at around halfway to 1/3 where the THC is. If there is a high nug ratio then I completely eradicate the leafs from the nugs. I then split them from the main stem leaving a section on as it provides a slower dry, and hang for 4-7 days. Then leave on newspaper in a drawer for a day, opening the drawer twice and jarring when the stems snap but not cleanly. After 7-10 days the bud smells how it should and the taste is as good as stuff I buy, and only improves from there I remember reading somewhere leaving leaf matter on means there is more chlorophyll to dissipate through cure, in the end product, as the plant distributes all its moisture evenly throughout either drying procedure.

Either way, everyone has their own little ritual when it comes down to the chop

I like to sit down after a heavy smoke, gloves on, heavy metal on and concentration face on, licking my lips raw and being absolutely scrutinous... bored rigid and aching back and hand after ten minutes.. my end product has never totalled over 3oz so I don't know how you monster dual 600/1000w growers cope!
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  #29  
Old 12-25-2013, 07:57 PM
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Strain depending on how I trim. If its a very high cylax to leaf ratio ill dry the entire plant and dry trim. Outdoor leafy stuff blows imo for dry trim, especially if you have a big yield. Before you add a humidifier of anything check your THAT. If you have huge buds watch out for mold, especially if your RH is high. I shot for a lil under 50% . Keep the air moving a bit, but avoid too much airflow on the plant.
Good luck
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  #30  
Old 12-28-2013, 05:14 PM
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Default Wet trim

I trim completely wet. Plant comes out whole if possible and in the middle of its dark cycle. I remove the fan leaves and any material that is not covered by trichomes and throw on the floor. Then I do the final manicure leaving the cola ready for a hanging. I try to do little leaf shaving and prefer to trim the petioles close to the node. For some strains shaving is necessary to retain the appearance of fullness. All resinous material is retained for kief collection and extracting. The trimmed wet flowers are hung in a dark, cool and dry location with a gentle movement of air from an occilating fan. Five to seven days of this and the flowers are tightening up due to dehydration. Once the stems get breakable I trim the hanging buds off of the stalk into a small plastic tote. Over the next two weeks the lid is removed periodically to maintain proper humidity. When its perfectly dry the lid is sealed and the package is vacuum sealed. At no point is the material in the tote shaken or stirred. Any movement results in massive amounts of microscopic damage. I avoid damage at all costs.

I was horrified at the above posts referring to "pith" leakage resulting from a wet trim. I thought "oh no, I'm fucking up my shit". Then I asked myself if I've ever noticed this "pith" leakage. Couldn't recall. Well, trimmed four plants yesterday. Before trimming I told the three trimmers about "pith" leakage. They scratched there matted heads and started trimming as usual. Six hours later and no "pith". No one saw "pith". In my opinion a dry trim causes much more microscopic damage than a wet trim. In my opinion, taste and smoothness are directly related to cultivation techniques and curing time. Techniques like flushing, controlled senescence, lowered concentration of feed near finish and long slow curing are crucially crucial in regards to taste, burn and psychoactivity.
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