Mr. Nice Forums  
Home History Strains Media Web Community Medical Marijuana Contact us Auctions

Go Back   MNS Forums > Grow information > 14. Indoor

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-23-2018, 04:53 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 68
Default Ph and organic nutrients

My water is ro i add ground dolomite lime to ppm of 120. I bubble for 24 hours and use it, add general organics bio thrive. The ph goes from 8 to 3.8....should i still adjust to 6 to 6.4 from the 3.8...this is crazy i have to add enuff k bicarb til it brings up ppm 200 to 300 ppm, to get ph back up to 6.4.....this is bad, right?

Growing in soil
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-24-2018, 08:49 AM
Broseidon's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 922
Default

Why do you add the dolomite lime if I may ask?

Why don't you just add less of it until your PH is where you want it?


In general, IF your containers are large enough (and I have come to find that 5 gal is NOT large enough, likely 10 or 15 gal upwards would suffice), you don't need to PH at all in organic soil.
If you run smaller containers like me (5 gal and under), then I would from personal experience advice to PH.

But if you are running living organic soil, then I fail to see why you would need to add dolomite lime.

I personally only PH my water with citric acid to get it down from 7.something to around 6. That is it.

The rest is done through the soil.

I generally wouldn't mess too much with the water and keep things in the soil. I personally found that using additives in the water leads to all kinds of issues for me ...
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-24-2018, 04:11 PM
musashi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: in a galaxy far, far away
Posts: 1,281
Default

KISS! How many actually do a soil test to establish baseline before supplementation? Not many. Got rid of many additives last season. Lo and behold not having to regularly pH my water anymore. Plants are stronger and more resilient. Go figure.

Cool runnings
M
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-24-2018, 08:52 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 68
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Broseidon View Post
Why do you add the dolomite lime if I may ask?

Why don't you just add less of it until your PH is where you want it?


In general, IF your containers are large enough (and I have come to find that 5 gal is NOT large enough, likely 10 or 15 gal upwards would suffice), you don't need to PH at all in organic soil.
If you run smaller containers like me (5 gal and under), then I would from personal experience advice to PH.

But if you are running living organic soil, then I fail to see why you would need to add dolomite lime.

I personally only PH my water with citric acid to get it down from 7.something to around 6. That is it.

The rest is done through the soil.

I generally wouldn't mess too much with the water and keep things in the soil. I personally found that using additives in the water leads to all kinds of issues for me ...
I an using ro water. The thought is if i bring my ppm to 120 im adding akalinity to The water. Ergo a buffer capacity. It was an idea that failed. Lol...

Im going to use water from my tap. Ph is 8.3 ppm 470. I live in an area where most of that alkilinity is from limestone. So caco3 should buffer it quite well...

Any thoughts
Edit....ph after nutes is 6.5.....im going to do a test and lower water ph from 8.3 to 6.5 then add nutes to see where the ph goes from there...first grow and dont know that much about ph and alkalinity...they're totally different. One is the waters ability to buffer and ph is pretty much the availability of nutes.

One question i do have is....if i use tap water bubble for 24 to 48. Then add nutes check ph. Lets say its 6.4, as the nutes get used up and the pot drys out, what effects on ph in the soil will there be....i.e. since water was 8.5 nutes make it 6.4. My ph range is 6.4 to 8.5? If not a bit of an explination would be great. I am assuming i would lower ph with the citric to 6.5,7 then add nutes....or doesn't it matter to adjust ph before adding nutes?

Last edited by Joker; 04-24-2018 at 09:01 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-25-2018, 08:50 AM
Broseidon's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 922
Default

Well I think we need to first clarify if you grow in organic soil (i.e. all the nutrients are mixed into the soil and the microbial life in the soil processes these nutes until they are in a form that is available for the plant to take up) or if you grow in a "soilless medium" (i.e. you have a mix of perlite/coco/peatmoss/etc. and add your nutrients through the water).

If it is organic soil then I would say stop adding nutrients to the water and let the soil handle the rest, just add plain water. You have to maybe play a bit with the PH to make sure there is no nutrient lockout due to too high or low PH and only if the containers are too small to allow the soil to buffer the PH itself.

If it is soilless medium, then you have to feed through the water and then the whole PPM and PH thing becomes very important and you have to match it to your soilless medium, meaning you have to analyze the runoff water from the pots after watering and see what PPM and PH it comes out with, then adjust the water accordingly until the runoff has the "right" PPM and PH for the plants to optimally be able to uptake nutrients.


I am an organic grower so take my advice/understanding of soilless medium with a grain of salt.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-25-2018, 12:38 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 68
Default

Dr earths soil. Its basically soil. Like promix except it has a little compost and probiotics in it. Im going to amend with more compost when i transplant again.

I also have soil cooking atm....will be using that when i repot...mixed at 50/50....... edit: i will be brewing a compost tea as well..

Im using firefox focus and i cant upload photos..

The top layer of my pots had black mold. I removed that smelly stuff out...i think the soil wasnt recieving enough light and it grew because of that...if not how did it get there?

Do you think that is in my walls and floor boards and the spores got in there via air movement?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-25-2018, 09:12 PM
musashi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: in a galaxy far, far away
Posts: 1,281
Default

Sounds like a humidity and air circulation problem. Do you have proper ventilation?

Aloha
M
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-25-2018, 09:44 PM
musashi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: in a galaxy far, far away
Posts: 1,281
Default

A humidifier and air cleaner are indespensible re: the indoor environment. Fridgidaire and Austin come to mind.

Aloha
M
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-25-2018, 11:51 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 68
Talking

Humidification is good 50 55....

Fresh air is definetly a problem as well as areation in soil....im going to repot to 7 gallon if i can save them. Chunky perlite is on top of tbe list of necessitates. Cant do the fresh air thing at the moment...will be moving to a better location soon.....fresh air will definitely be there.

Soil needs to drain better....i'll get it going...i repoted 4 yesterday tbey seem to not have liked it...the worst one was wilted...i just tossed it!

Was not worth saving.....
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-26-2018, 05:31 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Broseidon View Post
Well I think we need to first clarify if you grow in organic soil (i.e. all the nutrients are mixed into the soil and the microbial life in the soil processes these nutes until they are in a form that is available for the plant to take up) or if you grow in a "soilless medium" (i.e. you have a mix of perlite/coco/peatmoss/etc. and add your nutrients through the water).

If it is organic soil then I would say stop adding nutrients to the water and let the soil handle the rest, just add plain water. You have to maybe play a bit with the PH to make sure there is no nutrient lockout due to too high or low PH and only if the containers are too small to allow the soil to buffer the PH itself.

If it is soilless medium, then you have to feed through the water and then the whole PPM and PH thing becomes very important and you have to match it to your soilless medium, meaning you have to analyze the runoff water from the pots after watering and see what PPM and PH it comes out with, then adjust the water accordingly until the runoff has the "right" PPM and PH for the plants to optimally be able to uptake nutrients.


I am an organic grower so take my advice/understanding of soilless medium with a grain of salt.
We have RO water here too. And I grow in soil.
If I don't add calmag to all water, I get tip burn (zinc magnesium?.).and turned down leaves.
Also calcium issues.
I used to add dolimite to 200ppm, then aerate a minimum ten times the water amount, ie pump 200 litres of air through 20 litres or water.

Last edited by magillaguerrilla; 04-26-2018 at 05:40 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT. The time now is 08:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
All rights reserved, MR NICE SEEDBANK, NL