whats your biggest yield with CM

Joe King Park

New member
Mobile Propagator

damn big bag, i asked an information and this is how you help ? :(

do you realize not everybody is able to have a mother room ? or maybe a grower wish to grow a variety without keeping clones....

so we all know the yield from a selected CM clone, its all over the internet

the help i was asking is the yield from seeds and from experience, not "i have heard you can yield..."

any help will be welcome and im always here to help too as much as i can

sincerely

bat
Royal Mail Or Canada Post / Postes Canada Can Deliver The Goods. I Had No Propagation Room Or Mother Plants.
Clones Are Very Convenient, But Growing From Seed Gives One Confidence From The Start.
I Have To Quarentine My Arrivals Unlike Seedlings I Have Raised
JKP
 

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india sherpa

New member
liar?

You never seen a guy get that much!..............liar!
i know for fact you can get enormous yields with cm from seed or clone....and its not a lie the dude got 2+lbs 1 plant from seed on 1000w on a light rail....and yes he had co2 at varying levels, as he put ,"i really put it all together this time"....again there are supplements that wiiiiiiil help get that big yield ...i dont work for anybody but myself ,and i know how to get a big-small yield as well, good air exchange is the biggest thing i see people do wrong.no inline at all....lots of growers ignore the parameters that plants in general need-use....ie ph ect ect ect.....seen it for years....but some cats dont have $to invest in everything at once so i understand that.....learn the basics of botany first it really helps. also use feel not books to learn how there doing,get to know what your endogenous conditions do to plants....each room or garden will vary as far as phenos are concerned,ive taken cuts and seeds from people and my result was waaay shockingly different...they couldnt believe it was there strain...they will generally respond to all the pampering your willing to give...thats just some of my personal results....:D
 

ka240sx

New member
wanted to share my experience with cm. first my setup was 2 600 watt hps on adjust a wings reflectors with the super spreader. dual parabolics are the most efficient reflectors in my opinion. pro mix hp with added perilite. gh nutes using lucas formula. in room air conditioner and dehumidifier. thermal shield for reflective walls. box fans and ocilating fans kept the air moving and temps at 75. humidity a constant 50%. 20 plants under each light. plants got moved every night so that none were stuck on the outside the whole time. 32- 37 grams per plant dried after 9 weeks flowering. 650-700 grams per light. i love cm and hope i find a similiar pheno again.
 

jadashi

New member
67 ounces primo, 4 ounces of baby popcorn :

Horizontal
4 cell recirculated DWC
4 x 600 SonT's cubed to 3 x 3 foot each
25 day veg
Average EC 1.2
Ph drifted 5 to 7

All additives copied from active ingredients except Canna Vega as base...

Tria, Fulvic, Vitimin b1, kelp

If I go again I'd look at silica... :)

Note: There is a lot more scope to gain even more yield from this strain as this paticular grow was pretty much thrown together with far from ideal conditions...

A truely amazing specimen... :)
 
Last edited:

Prof77

New member
Simple explanation of increasing indoor yields

Just ran across this blog on increasing yield:

Increase Light Intensity

Most indoor growers do not supplement their plants with adequate light. Generally speaking, you’ll want 50 Watts/SQ.FT. or 1000 µmol/m²s, whichever measurement you are more comfortable using. Keep in mind, this is over the canopy area, not the entire footprint of the grow room.

If you are using air-cooled hoods with glass, you need to drop those immediately. Dirt, oil, and general buildup on the glass will decrease the amount of lumens reaching your plants by 5% - 25%. If you absolutely have to use glass, clean them thoroughly every month.

Additionally, make sure there is adequate distance between the tops of your plants and the lighting fixtures. Keep 24” between them if using open hoods with regular HPS bulbs. If using double-ended fixtures like Gavitas, I recommend keeping them 24” - 36” above the tops of your plants.

Supplement CO2

Introducing CO2 into your grow room can increase yields significantly (10% - 25%), but can also exacerbate problems if other conditions are not ideal. For example, raising the CO2 to 1500PPM in the first week of flower while only feeding your plants a nutrient strength of 1.0EC will probably (depending on the strain) cause deficiencies to onset rapidly. This is because CO2 increases your plants ability to metabolize the other limiting factors, and you haven't raised your nutrient strength to the relatively high levels needed to utilize that much CO2.

Light, CO2, and Nutrients/Water are the limiting factors of a cannabis pants. If all factors are not being optimized, plants will not grow to their full potential. This means to take advantage of CO2 supplementation, plants must already be receiving optimum light and nutrient levels. To put things simply, all factors must be “dialed in”.

As you may have gathered, the more CO2 introduced into your grow room, the more light and nutrients are needed by the plants. A great time to raise the CO2 levels in your room is during the beginning stages of flowering, when you are already ramping up the intensity of your digital ballasts and slowly increasing nutrient levels.

Generally speaking, I raise CO2 100-200PPM for every .1EC I raise my nutrient solution. Of course, supplementing CO2 requires a sealed room in order to maintain elevated levels and cannot be used in rooms that use intakes/exhausts for cooling measures. I find that levels of 500–800PPM in the vegetative stage and 800–1100PPM in the flowering stage provide the most balanced levels of growth for the strains I work with.

Furthermore, I encourage any grower insisting that 1500PPM is the optimal amount of CO2 for flowering cannabis plants to read the following academic literature studies:

CO2 crop growth enhancement and toxicity in wheat and rice
Bugbee B, Spanarkel B, Johnson S, Monje O, Koerner G.
Adv Space Res. 1994 Nov;14(11):257-67.

Super-optimal CO2 reduces wheat yield in growth chamber and greenhouse environments
Grotenhuis T, Reuveni J, Bugbee B.
Adv Space Res. 1997;20(10):1901-4.


Super-optimal CO2 reduces seed yield but not vegetative growth in wheat
Grotenhuis TP, Bugbee B.
Crop Sci. 1997 Jul-Aug;37:1215-22.

Cliff-Notes: In all the studies above, ~1,200 ppm CO2 is the upper limit of benefits from CO2. And ~1,000-1,200 ppm CO2 is the saturation point for most C3 species. For reference: 1,200 ppm CO2 = 0.12% CO2 = 1,200 micromole mol^-1 CO2.

Top/Train Your Plants


Generally speaking, most strains benefit from being trained with one method or another. Although I wouldn't recommend topping pure indica plants in a commercial setting, as they already tend to be slow vegging plant. It is possible that topping can extend the time needed to fully veg, however, the pros usually outweigh the cons.

Topping is the form of training I generally use, as it evens out the canopy and ensures multiple tops from a single plant. Topping causes the plant to bush out and grow multiple main colas, as opposed to a single "christmas tree" type structure. It is performed by cutting off the main shoot of a plant, generally right below the last node. This causes the secondary nodes to branch out, stretching vertically and allowing additional light to penetrate the dense canopy. I'd recommend doing this 1-3 times in veg (depending on genetics), allowing adequate time for the plant to recover before topping again. Some advanced growers even top plants once in the first week or two of flower.

It should also be mentioned that there is no one size fits all solution when it comes to training plants. Many strains will take to one method better than another and there is no substitute for taking your time and learning about your specific genetics.

Control Your Atmosphere

The most prominent area we see growers taking shortcuts is with their atmosphere control/HVAC system. It is a costly area to outfit correctly, making it a prime target when it comes to saving money. There are also very cheap shortcuts, such as intakes, exhausts, and ducted hoods. However, sealed rooms with proper atmospheric controls will outperform these cheaper alternatives in the long run and end up paying for themselves.

A high end atmospheric controller, such as Agrowtek or iPonic, will be a substantial up front investment, but like mentioned earlier, will pay for itself over time. Ideally, the conditions in your room should never fall outside of these parameters:
•Temperature: 70F – 76F
•Humidity: 45% – 65%

A controller from Agrowtek or iPonic will ensure these conditions are always within an acceptable range. For example, should the temperature rise beyond the acceptable level designated by the grower, the controllers will not only alert you via text message or email, they will also automatically ramp down your lights until an appropriate temperature is reached. These sort of fail safes can be the difference between keeping or losing an entire crop.

Use Proper Nutrient Levels

A pitfall of many indoor growers is falling victim to the marketing ploys of big nutrient companies. There is absolutely no reason to be using more than a handful of nutrient products. In fact, many growers are using K.I.S.S. strategies that include only 1-3 nutrients throughout the entire veg and flower cycle.

When people ask me about what nutrients are the best, my first question is to ask them what medium and style of growing they are utilizing. If using hydroponics, I generally recommend Canna or House and Garden. Both options are from reputable companies and are very clean, free from excess salts which can lockout your plants. The two lines are very similar, but H&G is much less expensive, making it a more popular choice from a budget standpoint.

Plant_Nutrients



If using soilless mediums such as coco, I tend to recommend Botanicare or Vegamatrix. In fact, a coco medium paired with Botanicare is what I've used for the past two years. It's allowed me to attain 13 consecutive 30% or higher potency test results, and consistently yields over 1.75LBS/1000W fixture. Vegamatrix is also an incredible line of nutrients and is very popular with people trying to go as natural as possible.

The biggest pitfall when it comes to nutrients is growers following the dosage instructions on the bottles. Let me be clear, nutrient companies recommend inflated dosage amounts so you run through their products quicker and need to purchase more.

For 95% of strains, there is absolutely no reason to go beyond 1.0 – 1.5 EC in veg (700 – 950 PPM) or beyond 2.0 EC (1400 PPM) in flower. Even the most nutrient hungry plants will not need that high of levels if all other factors are dialed in correctly. This is even assuming that you are supplementing CO2 at reasonable levels.

Thanks to "CULTI-VATED" for sharing this article.
 

cbdfan

New member
Just ran across this blog on increasing yield:

Increase Light Intensity

Most indoor growers do not supplement their plants with adequate light. Generally speaking, you’ll want 50 Watts/SQ.FT. or 1000 µmol/m²s, whichever measurement you are more comfortable using. Keep in mind, this is over the canopy area, not the entire footprint of the grow room.

If you are using air-cooled hoods with glass, you need to drop those immediately. Dirt, oil, and general buildup on the glass will decrease the amount of lumens reaching your plants by 5% - 25%. If you absolutely have to use glass, clean them thoroughly every month.

Additionally, make sure there is adequate distance between the tops of your plants and the lighting fixtures. Keep 24” between them if using open hoods with regular HPS bulbs. If using double-ended fixtures like Gavitas, I recommend keeping them 24” - 36” above the tops of your plants.

Supplement CO2

Introducing CO2 into your grow room can increase yields significantly (10% - 25%), but can also exacerbate problems if other conditions are not ideal. For example, raising the CO2 to 1500PPM in the first week of flower while only feeding your plants a nutrient strength of 1.0EC will probably (depending on the strain) cause deficiencies to onset rapidly. This is because CO2 increases your plants ability to metabolize the other limiting factors, and you haven't raised your nutrient strength to the relatively high levels needed to utilize that much CO2.

Light, CO2, and Nutrients/Water are the limiting factors of a cannabis pants. If all factors are not being optimized, plants will not grow to their full potential. This means to take advantage of CO2 supplementation, plants must already be receiving optimum light and nutrient levels. To put things simply, all factors must be “dialed in”.

As you may have gathered, the more CO2 introduced into your grow room, the more light and nutrients are needed by the plants. A great time to raise the CO2 levels in your room is during the beginning stages of flowering, when you are already ramping up the intensity of your digital ballasts and slowly increasing nutrient levels.

Generally speaking, I raise CO2 100-200PPM for every .1EC I raise my nutrient solution. Of course, supplementing CO2 requires a sealed room in order to maintain elevated levels and cannot be used in rooms that use intakes/exhausts for cooling measures. I find that levels of 500–800PPM in the vegetative stage and 800–1100PPM in the flowering stage provide the most balanced levels of growth for the strains I work with.

Furthermore, I encourage any grower insisting that 1500PPM is the optimal amount of CO2 for flowering cannabis plants to read the following academic literature studies:

CO2 crop growth enhancement and toxicity in wheat and rice
Bugbee B, Spanarkel B, Johnson S, Monje O, Koerner G.
Adv Space Res. 1994 Nov;14(11):257-67.

Super-optimal CO2 reduces wheat yield in growth chamber and greenhouse environments
Grotenhuis T, Reuveni J, Bugbee B.
Adv Space Res. 1997;20(10):1901-4.


Super-optimal CO2 reduces seed yield but not vegetative growth in wheat
Grotenhuis TP, Bugbee B.
Crop Sci. 1997 Jul-Aug;37:1215-22.

Cliff-Notes: In all the studies above, ~1,200 ppm CO2 is the upper limit of benefits from CO2. And ~1,000-1,200 ppm CO2 is the saturation point for most C3 species. For reference: 1,200 ppm CO2 = 0.12% CO2 = 1,200 micromole mol^-1 CO2.

Top/Train Your Plants


Generally speaking, most strains benefit from being trained with one method or another. Although I wouldn't recommend topping pure indica plants in a commercial setting, as they already tend to be slow vegging plant. It is possible that topping can extend the time needed to fully veg, however, the pros usually outweigh the cons.

Topping is the form of training I generally use, as it evens out the canopy and ensures multiple tops from a single plant. Topping causes the plant to bush out and grow multiple main colas, as opposed to a single "christmas tree" type structure. It is performed by cutting off the main shoot of a plant, generally right below the last node. This causes the secondary nodes to branch out, stretching vertically and allowing additional light to penetrate the dense canopy. I'd recommend doing this 1-3 times in veg (depending on genetics), allowing adequate time for the plant to recover before topping again. Some advanced growers even top plants once in the first week or two of flower.

It should also be mentioned that there is no one size fits all solution when it comes to training plants. Many strains will take to one method better than another and there is no substitute for taking your time and learning about your specific genetics.

Control Your Atmosphere

The most prominent area we see growers taking shortcuts is with their atmosphere control/HVAC system. It is a costly area to outfit correctly, making it a prime target when it comes to saving money. There are also very cheap shortcuts, such as intakes, exhausts, and ducted hoods. However, sealed rooms with proper atmospheric controls will outperform these cheaper alternatives in the long run and end up paying for themselves.

A high end atmospheric controller, such as Agrowtek or iPonic, will be a substantial up front investment, but like mentioned earlier, will pay for itself over time. Ideally, the conditions in your room should never fall outside of these parameters:
•Temperature: 70F – 76F
•Humidity: 45% – 65%

A controller from Agrowtek or iPonic will ensure these conditions are always within an acceptable range. For example, should the temperature rise beyond the acceptable level designated by the grower, the controllers will not only alert you via text message or email, they will also automatically ramp down your lights until an appropriate temperature is reached. These sort of fail safes can be the difference between keeping or losing an entire crop.

Use Proper Nutrient Levels

A pitfall of many indoor growers is falling victim to the marketing ploys of big nutrient companies. There is absolutely no reason to be using more than a handful of nutrient products. In fact, many growers are using K.I.S.S. strategies that include only 1-3 nutrients throughout the entire veg and flower cycle.

When people ask me about what nutrients are the best, my first question is to ask them what medium and style of growing they are utilizing. If using hydroponics, I generally recommend Canna or House and Garden. Both options are from reputable companies and are very clean, free from excess salts which can lockout your plants. The two lines are very similar, but H&G is much less expensive, making it a more popular choice from a budget standpoint.

Plant_Nutrients



If using soilless mediums such as coco, I tend to recommend Botanicare or Vegamatrix. In fact, a coco medium paired with Botanicare is what I've used for the past two years. It's allowed me to attain 13 consecutive 30% or higher potency test results, and consistently yields over 1.75LBS/1000W fixture. Vegamatrix is also an incredible line of nutrients and is very popular with people trying to go as natural as possible.

The biggest pitfall when it comes to nutrients is growers following the dosage instructions on the bottles. Let me be clear, nutrient companies recommend inflated dosage amounts so you run through their products quicker and need to purchase more.

For 95% of strains, there is absolutely no reason to go beyond 1.0 – 1.5 EC in veg (700 – 950 PPM) or beyond 2.0 EC (1400 PPM) in flower. Even the most nutrient hungry plants will not need that high of levels if all other factors are dialed in correctly. This is even assuming that you are supplementing CO2 at reasonable levels.

Thanks to "CULTI-VATED" for sharing this article.
I'm curious what do you use to generate CO2?
 

59lespaul

Member
co2 tank and regulator ?

Were doing the CM right now but it isn't far enough along to determine production, but its looking good. 1 is about 35-40 days and the rest up to 2 weeks behind. The first 1 looks like it will go 60+ days. We got 11 females out of a pack, so this is a seed grow, and we will pick the most potent 1 for a mother.

We have also been growing the SSH and in the right temp can easily do 2lbs per light on out 63 day flowering clone. Weve been running it over a year and its still as good as it was. Maybe better.

But the SSH is far faster growing that the CM, and overall considering it grows so fast vs CM. The SSH is as good, or better than the CM for production.

I also know the SSH is pretty potent. I also think with the right CM that it can get close to the SSH. But you would have to select carefully.

Ive seen 22% for CM so it can be a really potent plant. If 22% doesn't do it, you may as well quit.

I figure the 1st CM will be harvested in mid January.

They are staggered, and they are being grown in 5 gallon containers. 11 of them, using Promix BX, 2 x 1000 Watt horizontal Eye Hortilux Bulbs.

They were also vegged under a 1000 Watt Hortilux. NO CO2. JUst a bit of fresh air, and box fans.

Also inside under a 1000 Watt Hortilux, in a 20 gallon container, with Promix BX we can get 240z from 1 MR Nice SSH plant inside, no CO2 ect. 6 week veg, under 1000 watts and 5 gal veg. Transplant into 2- gal container when flowering.


Going for the max we get 2lbs per light with Mr Nice SSH. But temps have to be right, and for how we are set up, is only possible in the winter, mid/late fall, and early spring.

Late spring-early fall we turn off 1 of the 2 flowering lights and production goes down to 16-18oz per plant x 1 x 1000 Hortilux. Production is cut 1/3 per light.

I started growing in 1972. Outside, and then in 74 got some 8ft high power fluorescent, then they came out with the Octagon, and I got 1 of those from High Times in about 77-78. They first had a bulb that the US Navy used to grow with, but was fragile, and they didn't like to ship them. I also have 1 of the 1st Isomerizers from HT. I think I got in in 74-75.

FoodI like is.. Better Grow Orchid Mix. Both the Veg, and Flower formula.

This stuff is great, and contains nothing but the highest quality ingredients. NO UREA NITROGEN. Which is cheap and much of it is lost as gas.

This stuff is Highly Potent.

In veg the SSH seems to like 2 teaspoons per 5 gallons water Veg Formula + 1 Teaspoon per 5 Gal water Boom Formula. 3 tsp all together for 5 gal water, and water every time.

I also like to get the light as close as possible. Until it burns it, and then back it off until no more burn. Sometimes I get it as close as 18 inches and still have 80 degrees on top of the canopy. But Ive been doing it so long I can pretty well tell how close I can get vs temp in the room.

Better Grow also contains Magnesium, which is very inprotant to container grown plants. I believe it is the most common container grown plant deficiency.

Also comparing the Mr Nice SSH vs Rare Dankness GTH #1, and Reserva Parivada Kosher Kush. BOTH are really good weed. and admittedly I have only grown out 2 packs each of SSH, GTH #1 and Kosher Kush the KK and GTH#1 can only produce 9-16oz per plant using the same technique and the GTH #1 grows really really slow.

KK was more dense, and grew faster, but had an Indica Buzz and more eartly taste. The GHT#1 was Citrus, as is out SSH cut. But the SSH has a better taste and high. IMHO. But its close. And the surprise really is how strong the KK is. its very long lasting buzz, and in some ways may have a more High End taste than the GTH#1.

But the GHT#1 is a BUST, as far as production and was canned. It got 9oz. The KK barely made the cut as it did get 16oz, and that is the minimum accepted yield for me.

But 9-16oz.. Per Light... vs up to 32, is a lot to give up. It would have to be 1 toke = a whole joint, and last 5 hours, and no ceiling to take a hit on production like that.

I had the same experience with Serious Seeds AK47... KILLER WEED !!!! ANd the plants look like they are going to produce much more than thy=ey do. They dry up to nothing. Maybe 12oz at best.

But it is better buzz wise than either the SSH, GHT#1, or the KK. At least the phenos Ive found. Im sure there is a killer SSH, KK, GHT#1 that is better than the AK47 I found. But it was canned too because of only 12oz per plant.

We also tried crossing it to the Original Sensi Seeds Northern Lights #5... Which was also KILLER, but it still didn't produce any more. This cross was also stronger than any of the above mentioned strains. We made 5000+ seeds several years ago, and still have 4500 of them. The are triple vacuum sealed and also have 2 layers on silica, and kept at 35- 38 degrees.


Urea Free Orchid Food, Orchid Plus 20-14-13 and Orchid Bloom Booster 11-35-15


 
Last edited:

59lespaul

Member
CM done !!

The CM turned out KILLER. It was a slower grower than the SSH and didn't produce like the SSH but its more potent.

Im surprised how potent it is, and also how beautiful it is. We didn't get huge buds vs SSH.

From seeds x 1 1000 Watt Horitlux/Horizontal light, with 3 plants got 17 oz.

Minimum acceptable is 16.

Also Im sure that with it dialed in better it will do better. But were getting 2lbs per light with the SSH, and it grows fast, and we have a 63 day SSH.

But as far as the weed strength goes, I like the CM better than the SSH. I believe a cross would be killer.

IMHO it has a balanced buzz. It hit both body/mind. Also heavy on the eyes.

Very, very good taste/smell.

Its got a skunk, lemon/pine sol, with more Pine Scent, with a hint of Anise Seed/Licorice smell. Very strong smell.

Also, tastes like it smells.
 

blowingupjake

Mothership Mod
59lespaul,
First off: nice name. Nothing sounds like a vintage les paul!

Second and thirdly: awesome report. How many weeks did you veg your CM?

Looking forward to popping the mass as soom as the WA and CH group graduate to my flower room. Wish i had more room for veg. I'd love to veg a CM for a couple of months and stick it under a 1000 and hope my foundation doesn't crack under all the weight :D

Jake
 

59lespaul

Member
CM was vegged under a 1000 Hortilux for 5 weeks., Started in 16oz cups x Promix BX, then transplanted, and vegged in 5 gallon containers with Promix, and Better Gro Orchid Fertilizer. Both Veg, and Flower Formula. Feeding was 2 tsp x Veg Formula x 1 tsp Flower Formula for 5 gallons water, feed them each watering.

Better Gro has been in business since the 50's, and is recommended by the American Orchid Society.

They only use top quality ingredients, with the highest bioavailability.

NO UREA NITROGEN in this stuff. Urea is Cheap, and much of it turns into gas, and is wasted as soon as its released into the air/environment. Also causes acidification, and then rebounds.

Advantages of nitrate over ammonium-containing fertilisers




Nitrates are the preferred nitrogen source:
◾Non-volatile: unlike ammonium, nitrate is non-volatile, so there is no need to incorporate it in the soil when applied by top- or side dressing, which makes it a convenient source for application.
◾Mobile in the soil - direct uptake by the plant, highest efficiency.
◾Nitrates synergistically promote the uptake of cations, such as K, Ca and Mg, while ammonium competes for the uptake with these cations.
◾Nitrates can be readily absorbed by the plant and do not need to undergo any further conversion, as is the case with urea and ammonium, before plant uptake.
◾No acidification of the soil if all the nitrogen is applied as nitrate-nitrogen.
◾Nitrates limit the uptake of harmful elements, such as chloride, into large quantities.
◾The conversion of nitrates to amino acids occurs in the leaf. This process is fuelled by solar energy, which makes it an energy-efficient process. Ammonium has to be converted into organic N compounds in the roots. This process is fuelled by carbohydrates, which are at the expense of other plant life processes, such as plant growth and fruit fill.




The higher nitrogen uptake efficiency with nitrate, compared to ammonium fertilisation, was clearly demonstrated by Legaz et al (1996). They found that the highest efficiency in N absorption (labelled isotope N-15) in citrus trees in function of the type of fertiliser (KNO3, ammonium sulphate), applied to a sandy and a loamy soil, and measured over a six month period, was obtained with nitrates. Differences in N-uptake were greatest in the sandy soil with 60 % N-uptake efficiency when N applied as potassium nitrate, and only 40 % N-uptake efficiency, when N was applied as ammonium sulphate.






B G also contains Magnesium, which is of course the #1 deficiency in container grown plants. MJ uses a lot of Magnesium.

Of course when they are young, the feeding is much, much lighter. But after they come up, and are noticeably healthy, and liking the environment, we do feed a very, very light solution. 1/2 tsp x Veg x 1/2 tsp Flower x 5 gal water Some don't feed as early as we start. But I don't see how feeding them, if done very lightly, can hurt, and it never has. But like anything. A very little goes a long way.

Also use tap water but let it air out for at least 24-36 hours. Usually doesn't require PH adjustment.

We also believe in blasting them with as much light as possible in the early stages. IMHO this makes for a more compact plant. Even if it is a stretchy plant by nature, and not saying it still wont stretch. Just reach its full potential.

For Flowering he used Better Gro Orchid Fertilizer..2 tsp Flowering Formula x 1 tsp Veg. Per 5 gallons water.

Also, this in my friends but I call it ours, as I supplied the seeds. Hes an experienced grower, ( 40 Years ) and he needs no input from me on that. Ive also grown a long time, but its not in the cards for now.

Heres a bad photo of a CM bud. This pic doesn't do it justice. I would show more, but the buds are in jars curing.



 
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