Mango Haze indoors (LED)

Earlier pictures with turned up edges and burnt tips would have indicated a simpler problem re: heat and water. Newer pictures showing whole plant give a better idea. I'm gonna have to go with the boys on pH. Time to clean out that reservoir? And how old is that Hydroguard?

🤙
Mu
I only started using Hydroguard on July 15, i will clean out the tank and also check my ph probe to make sure it hasn't drifted too much
 
My experience with the *claw* is that it is due to either soil PH or overly wet soil (which causes PH issues).
Have a good PH meter ? Take some soil and make a slurry to check it.....although it might be too late at this stage to correct it.
 
The more I search around online the more I think it may just be a lack of K or feeding overall, definitely seeing the leaf margins go red/brown - will up the nutes a bit to see what happens
 
Further thinking, this is really the same problem on every grow when I look at my journals.

Start the grow, everything is ok.
Flowering phase begins, plants look healthy, minimal feeding.
Plants start to look hungry, begin feeding flowering nutes at 1/4 strength.
Tips start to go yellow/brown - looks like nute burn, really?! I've hardly been feeding them
Ok, back off the nutes then I guess if I'm seeing nute burn.........then things get worse :(

What happens then is that I just end trying to nurse plants through to the end

Same light, same soil, same water, pH around 6.5. Now my water i think is on the hard side, I have a water softener but I don't give this water to the plants, I use the non-softened tap. So I'm thinking that maybe there is an excess of calcium in my water which is locking out K and Mg - that's another thing, I always get a mag deficiency.

I have measured the EC of my tap water and it comes in at 0.3 - 0.4, which I believe is not bad? Maybe someone has more of an idea about that or whether that's an indication of how much calcium is in my water....

my plan from now until the end of this grow is to feed much less of the AN Bloom that has Ca, Mg and N - i will supplement the Mg separately, the other AN will look after P, K and also has N - will see how that works out

thanks for reading
 
Further thinking, this is really the same problem on every grow when I look at my journals.

Start the grow, everything is ok.
Flowering phase begins, plants look healthy, minimal feeding.
Plants start to look hungry, begin feeding flowering nutes at 1/4 strength.
Tips start to go yellow/brown - looks like nute burn, really?! I've hardly been feeding them
Ok, back off the nutes then I guess if I'm seeing nute burn.........then things get worse :(

What happens then is that I just end trying to nurse plants through to the end

Same light, same soil, same water, pH around 6.5. Now my water i think is on the hard side, I have a water softener but I don't give this water to the plants, I use the non-softened tap. So I'm thinking that maybe there is an excess of calcium in my water which is locking out K and Mg - that's another thing, I always get a mag deficiency.

I have measured the EC of my tap water and it comes in at 0.3 - 0.4, which I believe is not bad? Maybe someone has more of an idea about that or whether that's an indication of how much calcium is in my water....

I have the same problem, except my tap water is around 100 ppm with maybe 40 ppm Ca. If you are on municipal water, ask your water department for a recent analysis. They are required by EPA to test for contaminants frequently, but they should also have some general wet chemistry tests that will tell you what your K, CA and Mg numbers look like.
 
I have the same problem, except my tap water is around 100 ppm with maybe 40 ppm Ca. If you are on municipal water, ask your water department for a recent analysis. They are required by EPA to test for contaminants frequently, but they should also have some general wet chemistry tests that will tell you what your K, CA and Mg numbers look like.
yes i need to see if i can get my water tested to see the exact breakdown, thanks
 
Flushed both plants today, I will feed much less Calcium from now on and hopefully can get them to the end, day 63 of 12/12. One of the plants buds smells really citrusy, the other smells like hay lol
 
Flushed both plants today, I will feed much less Calcium from now on and hopefully can get them to the end, day 63 of 12/12. One of the plants buds smells really citrusy, the other smells like hay lol
When too much of any nutrient is added, it will typically throw off pH. A safe thing to do when pH is off is to top dress with a teaspoon/pinch of dolomite lime to buffer the plant. You may be seeing some nutrient lockout or pH issues unrelated to the nutrients you actually gave, maybe water or soil mix or consider what you gave it during the veg stage. Wait a few days after giving the dolomite lime to see if this helps.....i usually notice within a day or two that the plant is no longer headed in the wrong direction. A lot of things can throw off pH, dolomite is a nice and easy fix but don't want to use it too often.
 
That certainly looks like *salt* residue from using too much nutrients along with too much moisture for too long a duration.
I only see it on some of the 15-20+ week landrace sativas at the very end of flowering.
To me it means the soil has been completely leeched out and is nearing toxicity.
 
"n2ishun, Have a good PH meter ?

Hello n2ishun!

I don't have a good one. I would like an excellent soil PH tester and the same with a water PH tester. Both should be of high quality and high accuracy. Do you have any suggestions? What do you use?
Anyone?

Longball
 
On your post of June 22 everything looked great, in July you have bad tip burn. Look at your grow book and see if you added anything, if so delete it after flush. Flush anyway and use just basic nutrients. Looks like some of mine when I've added to much of something.
 
View attachment 46267
you guys ever seen this on your grows?? First time for me, looks like some kind of mold? I actually have a fan down the blowing over the soil so that’s weird
Hi yosim your medium is way to dry when it gets to this stage, the aim of the game is it to keep it moist enough but not overly wet. Also next time around add some perlite to the mix to help the soil stay areated.

Before every watering rough up the top of the soil gently with your fingers and then water small amounts at first around the stem, making sure the soil is actually absorbing the water and that it's not just running out the gap between the soil and the edge of the pot. When it gets as dry as it is in your last picture it actually takes a bit of effort to get the soil wet through again so maybe this watering leave them in a tray so they can absorb some water back in from the bottom at their own pace.

Also the fan blowing across the soil is drying the soil out even faster than it should be, if you need it there at all move it up so it's blowing through the bottom of the foliage and off the soil.

Soil is a great natural buffer so there is no need to ph your water, if what comes out of your tap is fit for consumption it's fine for your plants. Best of luck with the rest of the grow!
 
That is coco You are growing in ph should be a bit lower . And it should never get dry . 5.8 to 6.2 is a good range to shoot for . That way the ph in the soil will not fluctuate as wildly. And yes too much calcium locks out magnesium.
 
Hi everyone, getting close to the end now!
big positive is that I don’t see any nanners/seeds so am really happy with that and shows to me that MH is pretty strong and resilient to light issues etc

been checking the trichomes recently, 1 plant i am seeing translucent amber, is this a sign that she’s ready??
The other plant are getting cloudy but not seeing any translucent amber yet, maybe she is just different
Either way I will probably chop them within the next 7 days as seeing some brown trichs on 1 plant indicating that I’m well inside the window for harvest
Just to reply to above posts, I don’t water top down, i use autopots, also i am in soil not coco, thanks all!

p.s. so annoying that images keep rotating 90 degrees 😒
B49F96F3-B1FF-41EF-918D-0747AE2AED59.jpegEF615900-0DF4-411D-A7D0-5F76AB693D4E.jpeg
 
Cloudy to amber is a good sign that plants are ready for harvest. While some variation in maturity, most of these plants will come within a week or two of each other. Note the differences in color from top to bottom, and harvest according to percentage of cloudy to amber. Sometimes you might begin harvesting parts of the plant due to differences in maturity of these parts. Harvest a range of color so you have a gauge going forward as to what your preference is for the particular variety.


🤙
Mu
 
Cloudy to amber is a good sign that plants are ready for harvest. While some variation in maturity, most of these plants will come within a week or two of each other. Note the differences in color from top to bottom, and harvest according to percentage of cloudy to amber. Sometimes you might begin harvesting parts of the plant due to differences in maturity of these parts. Harvest a range of color so you have a gauge going forward as to what your preference is for the particular variety.


🤙
Mu
Thanks musashi - unfortunately I need to dry inside my grow tent so both plants will have to come down at the same time
 
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