Cloning Info

[BudBo]

Hello all

I've seen lots of vids n they usually show the same thing trimmed leaves , scrapped off bottom n root tone

but i can never seem to remember wer u cut the clone from like 2nd 3rd 4th nodes down?

I was also wondering wat plants can n cannot b cloned bcus i was goin to practice cloning my big tomatoe plants i got growin



Edit: i kno thers alot of info on here n icmag so i'ma b jus around readin but any info from u all will b most appreciated gracious n take it easy


BudBo

[30years]

Originally Posted by BudBo

Hello all

I've seen lots of vids n they usually show the same thing trimmed leaves , scrapped off bottom n root tone

but i can never seem to remember wer u cut the clone from like 2nd 3rd 4th nodes down?

I was also wondering wat plants can n cannot b cloned bcus i was goin to practice cloning my big tomatoe plants i got growin



Edit: i kno thers alot of info on here n icmag so i'ma b jus around readin but any info from u all will b most appreciated gracious n take it easy


BudBo

hi,
the best practice is with the plants you intend to clone. you can clone pretty much anything, some things just take a lot longer than others.

ive run a commercial clone op for years, maybe 4000-5000 cuts a month on average. ive tried everything during that time and i found simple always best.

i use oasis cubes, either 50 or 104 cell count depending on what the client requests/prefers. both work just fine. the 104 cell size require more leaf removed and a little shorter stem. the 50 cell size is pretty much stick and go.

i dont use hormones anymore as they really are not needed if all else is right. i use sharp fiskars snips to do the cutting. i cut all the stock from the moms into coolers and bring the coolers full of donor material back to the girls who work sticking the trays. cut the clone to size, stick into the cube and done.

i use lids on the trays as the rooms are dry where the cuts are rooted but i lift them up a 1/2 inch on day 10 by putting thumb tacks into the corners of the trays under where the lids rest. this aclimates them to the new drier climate and the lids are off at day 13 and the plants ready to go day or so after that.

i dont care if there are any nodes or a specific number of leaves or anything else that ive heard. i need mom stock that is healthy and a good rooting environment and thats really it. i use bottom heat in the colder months but not during the summer-its all ready warm enough.

the first feeding is 1/2 strength food plus root xl from house and garden. roots almost tear the cubes apart they grow so profusely after that first application.

main point is to match the age of the the slip with the other slips. no young growth with older growth in the same tray. one roots faster than the other and you will have inconsistent results. young growth with young growth, older growth with older growth.

i just cloned a whole bunch of ancient roses we found and except for the addition of rooting hormone the same deal. i used to clone a lot of other species of plants but i use trays of perlite and top misting, not oasis and lids. cheaper plants need cheaper houses...

hope this helps. any specific questions ask!
best,
30years

[zesk]

hello everyone alot of good info their cheers

iv worked on a nursery taking and planting cutting, nothing interesting really
just viburnum and that sort of thing. we never used any hormone just straight in compo' then into the mist unit.

i was having a chat to a bloke about cuttings, his prefered method is to do a small verticle cut in the stem instead of one across, has anyone tried this

[b0b_b1tch1n]

i just took some clones that rooted in under a week and they were from a stretchy plant , the nodes were far appart and not one had a node inside the cubes , the stems rooted just fine