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Old 01-30-2011, 04:23 PM
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Default The Definitive Colloidal Silver Tutorial

This is dedicated to those that want to experiment with some Gals that they cherish...

Original Method I used from day 1 since releasing this info back at CW many years ago..


Follow it exactly and you will be successful...



The Definitive Colloidal Silver Production tutorial
Colloidal Silver aka: Silver suspended in water

Is nothing new and has been used for over a hundred years for various purposes.
Silver in itself is an impeccable sterilizing metal that is very precious..


My focus is using this metal in a wire form to create an electrode of both - and +
to submerse in a pure water free from dissolved solids and break the silver down into
the smallest particles possible.

We are in essence trying to penetrate the plant's epidermal layer and deliver the silver
particles to the cellular level to interfere with the ethylene production and ultimately
suppress it.


This done to a female staminate plant will create a full reversal when all goes well and
the results are viable pollen that will donate all the DNA and RNA that her lineage has
to offer,be it good or bad.


This is simply not going to create an exact clone or duplicate of the gal that is reversed any more than hitting her with pollen from a male sibling from her generation.


I want to make that clear ...

The results with your feminised breeding will be based solely on your ability to select a proper parent
on both sides of the equation be it donor or receptor.
This is merely a means to an end.


I will be using 14 gauge wire pharmaceutical silver that is 99.999% pure silver.
The wire configuration lends itself exceptionally well to the electrical erosion and
creation of silver particles,when combined with the voltages ,MA,duration,and O2
Enriched water that I outline in this tutorial.
12 gauge -14 gauge is ideal .
You simply cannot expect the same results with a silver bar for example as it's surface
area is far greater and the results will not be the same as the wire.
So stick to my detailed instructions exactly ...

This is in my opinion the ideal configuration and quality to use for this application.
I will be using pure RO water, nothing else (no sodium ever!)
Distilled water is also ideal,,but the emphasis has to be water that is pure and without and dissolved solids.


The power supply needs to be no higher than 800 ma for best results and an ideal voltage is under 9 volts, I like 6 to 7.5 the best.


My Old radioshack DC power supply has been going strong for 10 years.


An airstone was used by me initially as it is proven that an elevated dissolved oxygen
level in the water during electrolysis of the silver anodes allows a more efficient process and this a smaller particle.


Remember this is paramount! the smaller the silver particle the better it will work!
lower voltage also allows a slower less erratic erosion of the silver wire and yet again smaller particles,rather than a larger amount of electricity and a larger flake.



The Airstone incorporated into the CS process is Essential !! Mandatory and needed!!! I hope I made that clear!


The airstone needs to be placed in the container (preferably glass) prior to starting
the process.


I usually only make enough to treat 1 small plant at a time and don't use any that is
beyond 30 days old.

This is why the crap they sell at GNC for example is not going to work..


1st it's made properly and 2nd CS has a shelf life.


Here is what my wires look like ...

Nothing fancy just 7" lengths attached to the DC power leads..

Don't ever let the leads from the voltage supply contact the water,only the silver!
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Last edited by Cabron; 01-31-2011 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:25 PM
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The power supply is set at 7.5 volts and verified with my voltmeter!
Ranges from 6-9 vdc are ideal and 300 ma being minimal
but 800 maximum....


In this batch I am using 7.5 vdc @800 ma
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File Type: jpg IMGP8099.JPG (329.7 KB, 49 views)
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:26 PM
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Spacing for the electrodes or wires is best at 2" or below..
I like 1/2" gap between them ,,,never touching of course!!

But this Lid I am use today is at 2", we will use that!
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:27 PM
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OK with all that said...

We are now up and running!

Starting PPM is under 10 ppm
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:29 PM
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You will need to wipe the positively charged anode
every two hours.
This keeps a clean surface and the electrode surface unobstructed
in return she will continue the electro erosion process running smoothly
and particles will be the same size .

This also prevents that black build up of by product on the bottom.
It will turn black ,a paper towel is fine, wipe them both down while
you're at it!


Clean electrodes are happy electrodes!
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:31 PM
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The water should be getting very cloudy by now...
But not black ,or debris floating in it!


The PPM now reads 35 was 8 ppm initially.

I like to let it go 6 - 8 hours..

I have pictured the progression of the cloudiness
first pic at 2 hours as I cleaned the anodes initially.


Then at the 4 hour mark...
As you can see the anode on the right is the positive charge
and is ready to be wiped..
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File Type: jpg IMGP8103.JPG (303.6 KB, 41 views)
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:34 PM
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6 Hours have lapsed..
The ppm has now reached 45
That's 37 ppm good enough for me....

I know it shows 42 ppm but it was climbing as I took the pic....



I will pour the CS into a Blue airtight bottle asap
This is enough to fill 2.5 bottles of Sky

Keep it stored in a dark airtight container.


That's it folks,,,no black water, no clumps of shit on the bottom.
Just pure cloudy water with 37 ppm I have had it up to 40 ppm
always worked like a charm.

The dark clumps of shit many will find will be the result of neglecting to wipe
the anode down on a regular basis,,this shit is not good and isn't dissolved
so don't think that it's a sign of better solution...quite the contrary.

a Cloudy solution that is bitter tasting is the good shit!!



I will fill a spray bottle and start spraying a target gal 2 weeks before flower
Hit her once a day...you'll have a full blown male by the 2nd week of flower
with many strains and 3-4 weeks on the far end...


It's always best to set the target mom to be reversed into flower a good 2 weeks prior
to your other untreated mothers ,,,, You can harvest the pollen at your leisure as it
becomes available with tweezers and a petrie dish,,then brush it onto your mums .




enjoy and have some fun with this method!

You may now succeed with the Seed!
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File Type: jpg IMGP8150.JPG (264.2 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg IMGP8151.JPG (315.2 KB, 9 views)
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Last edited by Cabron; 01-31-2011 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:44 PM
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This is what you want to see when she is finished!!
You quite literally cannot see through it!
an opaque grey blue hue ....
But Pure! and clean!

Taste it ! it's bitter! it won't hurt ya I promise I drink the shit!


But I won't be endorsing that practice here,,,too much BS! and controversy
involved and I'd recommend you drink beer instead!
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Last edited by Cabron; 01-31-2011 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:46 PM
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Here are a few pics I took of my reversed East Coast Sour Diesel cut

I make it a regular practice to harvest the pollen into a petrie dish and
then brush the pollen onto target areas with a small detail brush.


If you are going to pollenate a whole room of target mothers then just place
her in front of the fan and kick the shit outta her!
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File Type: jpg esd1.jpg (113.5 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg ecsd2.jpg (106.7 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg ecsd3.jpg (98.9 KB, 43 views)
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:16 PM
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Cabron, aren't you worried about self-pollinating when you drink the colloidal silvah?

How much does silver wire usually cost? This seems like a pretty inexpensive operation that I could pull off pretty easily with my limited means...
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