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  #1  
Old 06-27-2012, 04:25 PM
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Default Better to keep tent cool? (1st post)

I have a 2x2x5 Growlab 60 tent, and I am running 2 150 watt Sunsystem hps lights with internal ballasts. I have to do everything I can think of to keep temps in the mid 80's. I have good ventilation (2 intake fans along with 1 fan pulling air from the tent) I keep it in a rather small closet so the hot air being taken out is recirculating back in. I need to keep the closet cracked when I can for fresh cool air. I keep 3 gallons of ice in the tent as well.
If I get a 400 watt cool tube with a ballast I can keep out of the tent, and hopefully closet. I can also use my fan/ carbon filter to pull the air out of the cool tube. If I take these measures should the temps drop to the upper 70's if the room that its in always runs in the low 60's?
BTW, if I asked something stupid, take it easy on my as this is my first ever post, well besides introducing myself.
Peace,
Toasty
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2012, 05:23 PM
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for tents:

Watts = m/h

means with your 300W of light, you need a inline fan, which can pull 300m/hour

only that way your temps can be controlled, of course your fan needs to blow outside of that room where the tent is in
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2012, 05:31 PM
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If possible you need to vent the air out of the room. My set up is in a closet and if I didnt vent the exhaust air out I would be screwed. I just made a hole in the wall of the closet and ducted it out there. You need to be careful where you put your exhaust hole though. I know mine goes pretty much straight outside. Take away the hot air and your heat problems should be solved.
On my first grow I had a similar problem except with humidity. My grow was in a super damp basement and once I got the old air out and made sure only fresh air was coming in everything was hunky dory. Air exchange is very important.

Good luck

Edit - Just like what deran said lolzerz

Last edited by MysteriousBoy; 06-27-2012 at 05:34 PM.
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  #4  
Old 06-27-2012, 07:46 PM
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Default Deran the man....

Quote:
Originally Posted by deran View Post
for tents:

Watts = m/h

means with your 300W of light, you need a inline fan, which can pull 300m/hour

only that way your temps can be controlled, of course your fan needs to blow outside of that room where the tent is in
Yo deran... Nice little formula... Think it's a little weighted and depends more on outside ambient temps and where the heat is going...

Back in the day I ran a 400 watt with two 90cfm squirrel cage blowers and it worked just fine since the exhaust was going through a wall like mystery boy explained.... So depending on other factors the formula can be tweaked...

I think the main problem is keeping everything concealed in the closet... You need fresh cool air coming in and hot stale air getting the fuck out... I vote cutting hole in the wall or ceiling and then latching it with a simple wall patch later... No big deal... With adjoining rooms I used a spare closet in the winter for an extra bloom/veg area one year and I used the exhaust to heat my bedroom during winter one year... Saved a shit ton on power...

Gotta get that hot air out and get some cool air moving in... I dunno about the bucket of ice in their either... Seems like a pain in the ass and probably only adds to humidity and not to cool the temps...

Could seal everything and add co2 so you would be safe running low 80s...

Cool tube and external ballast should help but that exhaust has got to go somewhere away from the intake or you are just circling hot air...

Best of luck... Welcome to MNF... anything you need help with there are plenty of people around to ask...

Have a good one...

Oh G
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  #5  
Old 07-03-2012, 03:42 PM
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Default Thanks

Great advise everyone. I guess I am going to have some problems, as It's not possible to put a hole in the wall. Yeah I have an 80 cfm and a 185 cfm fan, along with a fan in the tent. The thing I do have going is the room right outside the closet stays very cool (70 f) so I can keep the door cracked while the lights are on and it should suck enough cold air in. With my set up now the 2 150 watt ballasts are in the tent, so I am hoping with the 400 watt cooltube, and the ballast outside the tent will hopefully bring temps down a few degrees.?
Yeah the ice is a pain in the ass, but it is effective. I will use 2, 2 gallon containers and a fan blowing on it on an angle towards the plants. I do have to change out the ice 2 x's per 12 hour cycle though.
One more question. I am growing in a peat medium with some other organic goodies. The root zone stays about 75-80, but the canopy can get above 90 (I need to raise the lights a bit) Is it more important to have the rood zone cooler, or the canopy? Right now I can't have both
Only one plant seems to be effected at all, the other are blowing up nicely. I'm also not too concerned about the quality of the flowers as right now I am breeding. I had an LA male and female to make an f2, and the other is juicy chron juice ( Delicious seeds) GREAT PLANT that has been pollinated for an f1.
I realize I'm getting off my topic here a little, but is there a sure tell sign when the seeds are ripe? Ive heard anything from 2-4 weeks to "when the plants are done. Also, I pollinated as soon as I saw the first pistols. was this too early?
I know that's a lot to digest, but if anyone could help me I would much appreciate it
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  #6  
Old 07-03-2012, 09:08 PM
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(warm) room with tent : does it have a window ?

if yes - use cold room as air intake and blow hot air out of the room through window
if no - does the cold room have a window?
if yes - use (warm) room with tent for intake and cold room for outake
if no - make a hole in the wall or replace tent position
----

cooltube - depends :
if its a closed system (without a hole in the wall ) it wont do its job
if you have the possibility with a open window (open air-environment) - you wont need a cool tube - still it will lower temps
---

ballast outside of the tent - yep
---

rootzone must always be cooler than canopy
---

seeds are ripe when they crack the calyxes open, you will see that with your eyes if you look at it - a matuer seed

its never too early to pollinate, its just a question of yield (of seeds)
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  #7  
Old 07-04-2012, 08:00 PM
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Default Stretch fingers... Ok.. Here goes..

Hey deran... Sound info again... I feel we touch on a lot of the same things with the same perspective... It's nice reading what you post....

Can you just leave the door to the closest open... That will help immensely.

Run hot ducting out of the room... With out that your options go straight down hill... Could hook up an aircoditioner but that's super overkill and way more obvious than a hole in the wall... Voting again for hole in wall... There's ways around everything... What's preventing you from hole cutting?? It is your best option and nothing else is gonna quite work right...


That's a lot of fucking ice and water to be moving.... Have you tried dry ice?? You would atleast be adding co2....

Ballast and cool tube is going to be very minimal... Plus your adding watts so it will most likely just cancel out and you will be in the same boat...

Unhealthy plants will produce less than perfectly healthy seeds...
Deran is correct on pollen... The more often and the more pollen... The more seeds... You could pollenate two weeks before harvest and have a bunch of shitty seeds... You will know when the seeds are ready... Once fully mature the plant will end it's life around the areas that are pollenated... They will pop out and show themselves and leaves and chlorophyll will die around surrounding areas... Actual time depends on the genetics of both male and female plants..

Best of luck to you sir... Hope everything cools off for you...

Have a good one

OG
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  #8  
Old 07-05-2012, 06:36 PM
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Great advise guys. Yeah dry ice sounds like a great idea. I can have the temps a little higher that way. I defiantly can't make holes in the walls, but I can leave the closet door open. As I said the room it's attached to is much cooler. I checked and it stays in the 60's and this is summer. Winter growing will be much easier.
I have my 400 cooltube on the way. I can leave the ballast outside the tent and closet. This should help some? My carbon filter is outside the tent, but inside the closet, and I will be pulling the hot air out of the tent to it.
Also just to refresh you guys memory, my tent is only 2x2x5. So I can start using the cooltube today, or I can shut off one of the 150's and add 8,000 more lumens with a 105 watt 5000k cfl (I do not like cfl for flower) however this would give me 24,000 lumens for 4 sq ft of growing space.
For this breeding project would you guys recommend me finishing with the 150 hps and 105 cfl? continue the 2 150's and, or save my cooltube for my first "real" grow in the tent?
The temps at the base of the plant stays in the low 80's, but at the tops around 90+.
Also remember these guys are now used to the temps. The plants are very healthy and flowers are getting long and fat.
One more question that I am sure gets asked a lot, but I am currently posting, so I can't look it up. What Mr Nice strain will handle heat best, and give a good yield with a high CBD? I want at least 50/50 indica/sativa mix, or leaning towards the indica side.
Man I am glad i picked this site to use. Everyone has been super helpful and knowledgeable
Peace,
Toasty
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2012, 03:29 AM
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Default Deran

Quote:
Originally Posted by deran View Post
(warm) room with tent : does it have a window ?

if yes - use cold room as air intake and blow hot air out of the room through window
if no - does the cold room have a window?
if yes - use (warm) room with tent for intake and cold room for outake
if no - make a hole in the wall or replace tent position
----

cooltube - depends :
if its a closed system (without a hole in the wall ) it wont do its job
if you have the possibility with a open window (open air-environment) - you wont need a cool tube - still it will lower temps
---

ballast outside of the tent - yep
---

rootzone must always be cooler than canopy
---

seeds are ripe when they crack the calyxes open, you will see that with your eyes if you look at it - a matuer seed

its never too early to pollinate, its just a question of yield (of seeds)
OK, No window in closet, the cold room is under ground with no window access. So making a hole in the wall will just go into the ground. No air exchange possible. The cold room is very large however 1200 sq feet. Ok, the root zone is definatly cooler than the canopy.
I will be able to keep the ballast outside the tent and closet. I will be able to keep the closet door open, but the tent shut.
What do you mean tent position? Turn it around? I can see how that could work, but then I would not really have access to the plants.
Cool I didn't polinate too early.
I guess I will do everything that was suggested (including the dry ice) and see what happens when I put the 400 watt tube in.
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  #10  
Old 07-08-2012, 09:03 PM
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Default Get the hot ness away!!!

Hey toasty...

I would definitely hook up the tube and remote ballast... That will help a lot...

I understand the no hole situation now... Much more clear...

Dry ice should help better than regular ice...

Nomexperience with CBD strains... Sorry... I'd start a thread in the strain base section and you should get some help...

Try to intake as much cold air as possible and get the hot air as far away as possible.... Maybe a stronger fan to push the air through a longer duct toting filter.... Leaving the closet door open and using a closed light system is going to change things drastically.... I think you will be just fine..

Have a good one sir... Hope the pollination works out perfectly as well... The heat will only play a serious factor once buds are really maturing and they will become more sensitive to factors like your experiencing... The cool tube should displace a lot of the heat problems your having with the direct non air cooled ballasts and lights...

Have a good one sir and hope all is well...

OG...
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